First Impressions

We followed an Alpine path for some four miles, now hundreds of feet above a brawling stream which descended from the glaciers, and now nearly alongside it. The morning was cold and somewhat foggy, for the autumn had made great strides latterly. Sometimes we went through forests of pine, or rather yew trees, though they looked like pine; and I remember that now and again we passed a little wayside shrine, wherein there would be a statue of great beauty, representing some figure, male or female, in the very heyday of youth, strength, and beauty, or of the most dignified maturity and old age. My hosts always bowed their heads as they passed one of these shrines, and it shocked me to see statues that had no apparent object, beyond the chronicling of some unusual individual excellence or beauty, receive so serious a homage. However, I showed no sign of wonder or disapproval; for I remembered that to be all things to all men was one of the injunctions of the Gentile Apostle, which for the present I should do well to heed. Shortly after passing one of these chapels we came suddenly upon a village which started up out of the mist; and I was alarmed lest I should be made an object of curiosity or dislike. But it was not so. My guides spoke to many in passing, and those spoken to showed much amazement. My guides, however, were well known, and the natural politeness of the people prevented them from putting me to any inconvenience; but they could not help eyeing me, nor I them. I may as well say at once what my after-experience taught me—namely, that with all their faults and extraordinary obliquity of mental vision upon many subjects, they are the very best-bred people that I ever fell in with.

We followed an Alpine path for about four miles. At times we were hundreds of feet above a rushing stream flowing down from the glaciers. At other times we were almost beside it. The morning was cold and somewhat foggy, for autumn had advanced rapidly of late. Sometimes we passed through forests of pine, or rather yew trees, though they looked like pines. I remember that now and then we passed a small shrine beside the path. Each contained a statue of great beauty. The statues depicted men or women in the prime of youth, strength, and beauty, or in dignified maturity or old age. My hosts always bowed their heads as they passed these shrines. This shocked me, since the statues seemed to serve no purpose beyond recording someone's unusual excellence or beauty. Yet they received such serious reverence. However, I showed no surprise or disapproval. I remembered that the Apostle to the Gentiles had instructed us to be all things to all people. For the present, I would do well to follow that instruction. Shortly after passing one of these chapels, we suddenly came upon a village emerging from the mist. I was afraid I might become an object of curiosity or dislike. But that did not happen. My guides spoke to many people as we passed, and those they spoke to showed great amazement. My guides, however, were well known, and the people's natural politeness kept them from causing me any inconvenience. But they could not help looking at me, nor I at them. I might as well say now what I learned from later experience. Despite all their faults and their extraordinarily distorted views on many subjects, they are the best-mannered people I have ever met.

The village was just like the one we had left, only rather larger. The streets were narrow and unpaved, but very fairly clean. The vine grew outside many of the houses; and there were some with sign-boards, on which was painted a bottle and a glass, that made me feel much at home. Even on this ledge of human society there was a stunted growth of shoplets, which had taken root and vegetated somehow, though as in an air mercantile of the bleakest. It was here as hitherto: all things were generically the same as in Europe, the differences being of species only; and I was amused at seeing in a window some bottles with barley-sugar and sweetmeats for children, as at home; but the barley-sugar was in plates, not in twisted sticks, and was coloured blue. Glass was plentiful in the better houses.

The village was just like the one we had left, only rather larger. The streets were narrow and unpaved, but fairly clean. Vines grew outside many houses. Some houses had signs painted with a bottle and a glass, which made me feel quite at home. Even on this ledge of human society, a stunted growth of tiny shops had somehow taken root and survived. They had done so, though the climate for trade was bleak indeed. Here, as everywhere we had been so far, everything was broadly the same as in Europe. Only the particular kinds differed. I was amused to see bottles of barley sugar and sweets for children in a window, just as at home. But the barley sugar came in flat pieces, not twisted sticks, and was blue. The better houses had plenty of glass.

Lastly, I should say that the people were of a physical beauty which was simply amazing. I never saw anything in the least comparable to them. The women were vigorous, and had a most majestic gait, their heads being set upon their shoulders with a grace beyond all power of expression. Each feature was finished, eyelids, eyelashes, and ears being almost invariably perfect. Their colour was equal to that of the finest Italian paintings; being of the clearest olive, and yet ruddy with a glow of perfect health. Their expression was divine; and as they glanced at me timidly but with parted lips in great bewilderment, I forgot all thoughts of their conversion in feelings that were far more earthly. I was dazzled as I saw one after the other, of whom I could only feel that each was the loveliest I had ever seen. Even in middle age they were still comely, and the old grey-haired women at their cottage doors had a dignity, not to say majesty, of their own.

Lastly, I should say that the people were amazingly beautiful. I had never seen anyone even remotely comparable to them. The women were strong and walked with great majesty. The way their heads rested on their shoulders was graceful beyond words. Every feature was finely formed, and their eyelids, eyelashes, and ears were almost always perfect. Their coloring matched that of the finest Italian paintings. Their skin was the clearest olive, yet rosy with the glow of perfect health. Their expressions were divine. They glanced at me timidly, their lips parted in utter bewilderment. As they did, I forgot all thoughts of converting them, overcome by far more earthly feelings. I was dazzled as I saw them one after another. Each seemed the loveliest woman I had ever seen. Even in middle age they were still beautiful. The old, gray-haired women at their cottage doors had a dignity, if not a majesty, of their own.

The men were as handsome as the women beautiful. I have always delighted in and reverenced beauty; but I felt simply abashed in the presence of such a splendid type—a compound of all that is best in Egyptian, Greek and Italian. The children were infinite in number, and exceedingly merry; I need hardly say that they came in for their full share of the prevailing beauty. I expressed by signs my admiration and pleasure to my guides, and they were greatly pleased. I should add that all seemed to take a pride in their personal appearance, and that even the poorest (and none seemed rich) were well kempt and tidy. I could fill many pages with a description of their dress and the ornaments which they wore, and a hundred details which struck me with all the force of novelty; but I must not stay to do so.

The men were as handsome as the women were beautiful. I have always loved and admired beauty. But I felt simply overwhelmed in the presence of such splendid people. They combined all that is best in Egyptian, Greek, and Italian beauty. There were countless children, all extremely cheerful. I hardly need say that they had their full share of the beauty seen everywhere. I used signs to show my guides how much I admired and enjoyed what I saw. They were greatly pleased. I should add that everyone seemed to take pride in their appearance. Even the poorest were neat and tidy, though no one seemed rich. I could fill many pages describing their clothes and ornaments, and a hundred details that struck me as new. But I must not stop to do so.

When we had got past the village the fog rose, and revealed magnificent views of the snowy mountains and their nearer abutments, while in front I could now and again catch glimpses of the great plains which I had surveyed on the preceding evening. The country was highly cultivated, every ledge being planted with chestnuts, walnuts, and apple-trees from which the apples were now gathering. Goats were abundant; also a kind of small black cattle, in the marshes near the river, which was now fast widening, and running between larger flats from which the hills receded more and more. I saw a few sheep with rounded noses and enormous tails. Dogs were there in plenty, and very English; but I saw no cats, nor indeed are these creatures known, their place being supplied by a sort of small terrier.

After we passed the village, the fog lifted, revealing magnificent views of the snowy mountains and their nearer foothills. Ahead, I could now and then glimpse the great plains I had surveyed the evening before. The land was highly cultivated. Every ledge was planted with chestnut, walnut, and apple trees, and the apples were now being gathered. Goats were plentiful. There were also small black cattle in the marshes near the river. The river was widening rapidly, and the flat land along its banks was growing broader as the hills receded. I saw a few sheep with rounded noses and enormous tails. There were plenty of dogs, and they looked very English. But I saw no cats. Indeed, cats are unknown there, and a kind of small terrier takes their place.

In about four hours of walking from the time we started, and after passing two or three more villages, we came upon a considerable town, and my guides made many attempts to make me understand something, but I gathered no inkling of their meaning, except that I need be under no apprehension of danger. I will spare the reader any description of the town, and would only bid him think of Domodossola or Faido. Suffice it that I found myself taken before the chief magistrate, and by his orders was placed in an apartment with two other people, who were the first I had seen looking anything but well and handsome. In fact, one of them was plainly very much out of health, and coughed violently from time to time in spite of manifest efforts to suppress it. The other looked pale and ill but he was marvellously self-contained, and it was impossible to say what was the matter with him. Both of them appeared astonished at seeing one who was evidently a stranger, but they were too ill to come up to me, and form conclusions concerning me. These two were first called out; and in about a quarter of an hour I was made to follow them, which I did in some fear, and with much curiosity.

About four hours after we set out, we reached a sizable town, having passed two or three more villages. My guides tried many times to tell me something, but I could not understand what they meant. I gathered only that I had no reason to fear danger. I will spare the reader a description of the town. Just think of Domodossola or Faido. It is enough to say that I was taken before the chief magistrate. He ordered me placed in a room with two other people. They were the first people I had seen who did not look healthy and handsome. One of them was plainly very ill. He coughed violently from time to time, despite obvious efforts to suppress it. The other looked pale and ill, but he was remarkably composed. It was impossible to tell what was wrong with him. Both seemed astonished to see someone who was evidently a stranger. But they were too ill to approach me and make up their minds about me. The two were called out first. About fifteen minutes later, I was made to follow them. I did so with some fear and much curiosity.

The chief magistrate was a venerable-looking man, with white hair and beard and a face of great sagacity. He looked me all over for about five minutes, letting his eyes wander from the crown of my head to the soles of my feet, up and down, and down and up; neither did his mind seem in the least clearer when he had done looking than when he began. He at length asked me a single short question, which I supposed meant “Who are you?” I answered in English quite composedly as though he would understand me, and endeavoured to be my very most natural self as well as I could. He appeared more and more puzzled, and then retired, returning with two others much like himself. Then they took me into an inner room, and the two fresh arrivals stripped me, while the chief looked on. They felt my pulse, they looked at my tongue, they listened at my chest, they felt all my muscles; and at the end of each operation they looked at the chief and nodded, and said something in a tone quite pleasant, as though I were all right. They even pulled down my eyelids, and looked, I suppose, to see if they were bloodshot; but it was not so. At length they gave up; and I think that all were satisfied of my being in the most perfect health, and very robust to boot. At last the old magistrate made me a speech of about five minutes long, which the other two appeared to think greatly to the point, but from which I gathered nothing. As soon as it was ended, they proceeded to overhaul my swag and the contents of my pockets. This gave me little uneasiness, for I had no money with me, nor anything which they were at all likely to want, or which I cared about losing. At least I fancied so, but I soon found my mistake.

The chief magistrate was a dignified-looking man, with white hair and a beard and a very wise face. For about five minutes, he looked me over from head to foot, up and down, then down and up. When he had finished, he seemed no less confused than when he began. At last he asked me one short question, which I supposed meant “Who are you?” I answered calmly in English, as though he would understand me, and tried as hard as I could to be natural. He seemed more and more puzzled. Then he went away and returned with two others much like himself. They took me into an inner room, where the two newcomers stripped me while the chief watched. They felt my pulse, looked at my tongue, listened to my chest, and felt all my muscles. After each part of the examination, they looked at the chief, nodded, and said something in a pleasant tone. They sounded as though I were all right. They even pulled down my eyelids, I suppose to see if they were bloodshot, but they were not. At last they gave up. I think they were all satisfied that I was in perfect health and very robust as well. Finally, the old magistrate gave me a speech that lasted about five minutes. The other two seemed to think it was very much to the point, but I understood nothing from it. As soon as he finished, they searched my pack and the contents of my pockets. This worried me little, because I had no money with me. Nor did I have anything they were likely to want or that I cared about losing. At least, I thought so, but I soon discovered my mistake.

They got on comfortably at first, though they were much puzzled with my tobacco-pipe and insisted on seeing me use it. When I had shown them what I did with it, they were astonished but not displeased, and seemed to like the smell. But by and by they came to my watch, which I had hidden away in the inmost pocket that I had, and had forgotten when they began their search. They seemed concerned and uneasy as soon as they got hold of it. They then made me open it and show the works; and when I had done so they gave signs of very grave displeasure, which disturbed me all the more because I could not conceive wherein it could have offended them.

At first, things went smoothly, though they were puzzled by my tobacco pipe and insisted on seeing me use it. When I showed them how, they were astonished but not displeased, and they seemed to like the smell. But eventually they came to my watch. I had hidden it in my deepest pocket and forgotten about it when they began their search. They seemed concerned and uneasy as soon as they found it. Then they made me open it and show them the works. When I did, they showed signs of grave displeasure. This disturbed me all the more because I could not imagine how the watch could have offended them.

I remember that when they first found it I had thought of Paley, and how he tells us that a savage on seeing a watch would at once conclude that it was designed. True, these people were not savages, but I none the less felt sure that this was the conclusion they would arrive at; and I was thinking what a wonderfully wise man Archbishop Paley must have been, when I was aroused by a look of horror and dismay upon the face of the magistrate, a look which conveyed to me the impression that he regarded my watch not as having been designed, but rather as the designer of himself and of the universe; or as at any rate one of the great first causes of all things.

I remember that when they first found the watch, I thought of Paley. He tells us that a savage who saw a watch would immediately conclude that it was designed. These people were not savages, but I was sure they would reach the same conclusion. I was thinking what a wonderfully wise man Archbishop Paley must have been when I noticed the magistrate’s look of horror and dismay. His expression gave me the impression that he saw my watch not as something designed, but as the designer of himself and the universe. Or at least he saw it as one of the great first causes of all things.

Then it struck me that this view was quite as likely to be taken as the other by a people who had no experience of European civilisation, and I was a little piqued with Paley for having led me so much astray; but I soon discovered that I had misinterpreted the expression on the magistrate’s face, and that it was one not of fear, but hatred. He spoke to me solemnly and sternly for two or three minutes. Then, reflecting that this was of no use, he caused me to be conducted through several passages into a large room, which I afterwards found was the museum of the town, and wherein I beheld a sight which astonished me more than anything that I had yet seen.

Then it struck me that people unfamiliar with European civilization were just as likely to take this view as the other. I was a little annoyed with Paley for leading me so far astray. But I soon discovered that I had misread the magistrate’s expression. It showed not fear, but hatred. He spoke to me solemnly and sternly for two or three minutes. Then, realizing that speaking to me was no use, he had me led through several passages into a large room. I later learned that it was the town museum. There I saw something that astonished me more than anything I had yet seen.

It was filled with cases containing all manner of curiosities—such as skeletons, stuffed birds and animals, carvings in stone (whereof I saw several that were like those on the saddle, only smaller), but the greater part of the room was occupied by broken machinery of all descriptions. The larger specimens had a case to themselves, and tickets with writing on them in a character which I could not understand. There were fragments of steam engines, all broken and rusted; among them I saw a cylinder and piston, a broken fly-wheel, and part of a crank, which was laid on the ground by their side. Again, there was a very old carriage whose wheels in spite of rust and decay, I could see, had been designed originally for iron rails. Indeed, there were fragments of a great many of our own most advanced inventions; but they seemed all to be several hundred years old, and to be placed where they were, not for instruction, but curiosity. As I said before, all were marred and broken.

The room was filled with cases containing all kinds of curiosities, including skeletons, stuffed birds and animals, and stone carvings. Several of the carvings looked like those on the saddle, only smaller. But broken machinery of every kind occupied most of the room. The larger pieces each had a case of their own, with labels written in characters I could not understand. There were fragments of steam engines, all broken and rusted. Among them I saw a cylinder and piston, a broken flywheel, and part of a crank lying beside them on the ground. There was also a very old carriage. Despite the rust and decay, I could see that its wheels had originally been designed for iron rails. In fact, there were fragments of many of our own most advanced inventions. But they all seemed to be several hundred years old, and displayed to satisfy curiosity rather than to instruct. As I said before, all were damaged and broken.

We passed many cases, and at last came to one in which there were several clocks and two or three old watches. Here the magistrate stopped, and opening the case began comparing my watch with the others. The design was different, but the thing was clearly the same. On this he turned to me and made me a speech in a severe and injured tone of voice, pointing repeatedly to the watches in the case, and to my own; neither did he seem in the least appeased until I made signs to him that he had better take my watch and put it with the others. This had some effect in calming him. I said in English (trusting to tone and manner to convey my meaning) that I was exceedingly sorry if I had been found to have anything contraband in my possession; that I had had no intention of evading the ordinary tolls, and that I would gladly forfeit the watch if my doing so would atone for an unintentional violation of the law. He began presently to relent, and spoke to me in a kinder manner. I think he saw that I had offended without knowledge; but I believe the chief thing that brought him round was my not seeming to be afraid of him, although I was quite respectful; this, and my having light hair and complexion, on which he had remarked previously by signs, as every one else had done.

We passed many display cases and finally came to one containing several clocks and two or three old watches. The magistrate stopped, opened the case, and began comparing my watch with the others. The designs were different, but they were clearly the same kind of thing. He turned to me and made a speech in a severe, offended tone. He pointed repeatedly to the watches in the case and to mine. He did not seem at all satisfied until I gestured that he should take my watch and put it with the others. That helped calm him. I spoke in English, hoping my tone and manner would convey my meaning. I said I was extremely sorry if I had been found to have anything forbidden in my possession. I had not intended to avoid the usual tolls. I would gladly give up the watch if that would make up for breaking the law unintentionally. Soon he began to soften and spoke to me more kindly. I think he saw that I had offended without knowing it. But I believe the main reason he changed his attitude was that I did not seem afraid of him, although I was quite respectful. I also believe it helped that I had fair hair and a fair complexion. He had remarked on these earlier through gestures, as everyone else had done.

I afterwards found that it was reckoned a very great merit to have fair hair, this being a thing of the rarest possible occurrence, and greatly admired and envied in all who were possessed of it. However that might be, my watch was taken from me; but our peace was made, and I was conducted back to the room where I had been examined. The magistrate then made me another speech, whereon I was taken to a building hard by, which I soon discovered to be the common prison of the town, but in which an apartment was assigned me separate from the other prisoners. The room contained a bed, table, and chairs, also a fireplace and a washing-stand. There was another door, which opened on to a balcony, with a flight of steps descending into a walled garden of some size. The man who conducted me into this room made signs to me that I might go down and walk in the garden whenever I pleased, and intimated that I should shortly have something brought me to eat. I was allowed to retain my blankets, and the few things which I had wrapped inside them, but it was plain that I was to consider myself a prisoner—for how long a period I could not by any means determine. He then left me alone.

I later learned that fair hair was considered a great virtue. It was extremely rare, and everyone who had it was greatly admired and envied. Whatever the reason, my watch was taken from me, but we made peace. I was then taken back to the room where I had been examined. The magistrate gave me another speech, and I was taken to a nearby building. I soon discovered that it was the town’s common prison, but I was given a room separate from the other prisoners. It contained a bed, a table, chairs, a fireplace, and a washstand. Another door opened onto a balcony, with steps leading down to a fairly large walled garden. The man who brought me to the room gestured that I could walk in the garden whenever I pleased. He also indicated that I would soon be brought something to eat. I was allowed to keep my blankets and the few things I had wrapped inside them. But it was clear that I was a prisoner, though I had no way of knowing for how long. He then left me alone.