The Saddle

I cooeyed to him, but he would not hear. I ran after him, but he had got too good a start. Then I sat down on a stone and thought the matter carefully over. It was plain that Chowbok had designedly attempted to keep me from going up this valley, yet he had shown no unwillingness to follow me anywhere else. What could this mean, unless that I was now upon the route by which alone the mysteries of the great ranges could be revealed? What then should I do? Go back at the very moment when it had become plain that I was on the right scent? Hardly; yet to proceed alone would be both difficult and dangerous. It would be bad enough to return to my master’s run, and pass through the rocky gorges, with no chance of help from another should I get into a difficulty; but to advance for any considerable distance without a companion would be next door to madness. Accidents which are slight when there is another at hand (as the spraining of an ankle, or the falling into some place whence escape would be easy by means of an outstretched hand and a bit of rope) may be fatal to one who is alone. The more I pondered the less I liked it; and yet, the less could I make up my mind to return when I looked at the saddle at the head of the valley, and noted the comparative ease with which its smooth sweep of snow might be surmounted: I seemed to see my way almost from my present position to the very top. After much thought, I resolved to go forward until I should come to some place which was really dangerous, but then to return. I should thus, I hoped, at any rate reach the top of the saddle, and satisfy myself as to what might be on the other side.

I called out to him, but he would not listen. I ran after him, but he had too much of a head start. Then I sat down on a stone and thought the matter over carefully. Clearly, Chowbok had deliberately tried to keep me from going up this valley. Yet he had shown no reluctance to follow me anywhere else. What could this mean? Surely it meant I was now on the only route that could reveal the mysteries of the great ranges. What should I do then? Turn back just when it was clear I was on the right track? Hardly. Yet going on alone would be both difficult and dangerous. It would be bad enough to return to my master’s ranch through the rocky gorges. If I got into trouble, no one would be there to help me. But to go much farther without a companion would be almost madness. Minor accidents may be fatal to someone alone. A sprained ankle, for example, is a small matter when someone else is there. So is falling into a place from which an outstretched hand and a bit of rope would make escape easy. The more I thought about it, the less I liked it. Yet I was also less able to decide to return when I looked at the saddle at the valley’s head. Its smooth sweep of snow seemed relatively easy to climb. I could almost see my way from where I stood to the very top. After much thought, I decided to go on until I reached a place that was truly dangerous, but then turn back. I hoped that, at any rate, I would reach the top of the saddle. Then I could see for myself what might lie on the other side.

I had no time to lose, for it was now between ten and eleven in the morning. Fortunately I was well equipped, for on leaving the camp and the horses at the lower end of the valley I had provided myself (according to my custom) with everything that I was likely to want for four or five days. Chowbok had carried half, but had dropped his whole swag—I suppose, at the moment of his taking flight—for I came upon it when I ran after him. I had, therefore, his provisions as well as my own. Accordingly, I took as many biscuits as I thought I could carry, and also some tobacco, tea, and a few matches. I rolled all these things (together with a flask nearly full of brandy, which I had kept in my pocket for fear lest Chowbok should get hold of it) inside my blankets, and strapped them very tightly, making the whole into a long roll of some seven feet in length and six inches in diameter. Then I tied the two ends together, and put the whole round my neck and over one shoulder. This is the easiest way of carrying a heavy swag, for one can rest one’s self by shifting the burden from one shoulder to the other. I strapped my pannikin and a small axe about my waist, and thus equipped began to ascend the valley, angry at having been misled by Chowbok, but determined not to return till I was compelled to do so.

I had no time to lose, for it was now between ten and eleven in the morning. Fortunately, I was well equipped. When I left the camp and the horses at the lower end of the valley, I had packed for four or five days, as was my custom. Chowbok had carried half the supplies, but he had dropped his whole pack. I suppose he dropped it when he fled, for I found it when I ran after him. So I had his provisions as well as my own. I took as many biscuits as I thought I could carry, along with some tobacco, tea, and a few matches. I also had a flask nearly full of brandy. I had kept it in my pocket for fear that Chowbok might get hold of it. I rolled all these things inside my blankets and strapped them very tightly. The bundle was about seven feet long and six inches across. Then I tied the ends together and put the bundle around my neck and over one shoulder. This is the easiest way to carry a heavy pack, because you can rest by shifting it from one shoulder to the other. I strapped my pannikin and a small axe around my waist. Equipped like this, I began to climb the valley. I was angry that Chowbok had misled me, but determined not to return until I had to.

I crossed and recrossed the stream several times without difficulty, for there were many good fords. At one o’clock I was at the foot of the saddle; for four hours I mounted, the last two on the snow, where the going was easier; by five, I was within ten minutes of the top, in a state of excitement greater, I think, than I had ever known before. Ten minutes more, and the cold air from the other side came rushing upon me.

I crossed the stream several times without difficulty because there were many good places to cross. At one o’clock, I reached the foot of the saddle. I climbed for four hours, spending the last two on snow, where the going was easier. By five, I was within ten minutes of the top. I think I was more excited than I had ever been before. Ten minutes later, cold air from the other side rushed over me.

A glance. I was not on the main range.

A glance. I was not on the main range.

Another glance. There was an awful river, muddy and horribly angry, roaring over an immense riverbed, thousands of feet below me.

Another glance. Thousands of feet below me, a terrifying, muddy river roared across a vast riverbed, raging furiously.

It went round to the westward, and I could see no farther up the valley, save that there were enormous glaciers which must extend round the source of the river, and from which it must spring.

It curved westward, and I could see no farther up the valley. But I could see enormous glaciers. They must stretch around the source of the river, which must rise from them.

Another glance, and then I remained motionless.

I glanced again, then stood still.

There was an easy pass in the mountains directly opposite to me, through which I caught a glimpse of an immeasurable extent of blue and distant plains.

An easy mountain pass lay directly opposite me. Through it, I glimpsed a vast expanse of distant blue plains.

Easy? Yes, perfectly easy; grassed nearly to the summit, which was, as it were, an open path between two glaciers, from which an inconsiderable stream came tumbling down over rough but very possible hillsides, till it got down to the level of the great river, and formed a flat where there was grass and a small bush of stunted timber.

Easy? Yes, perfectly easy. Grass grew almost to the summit, which was like an open path between two glaciers. A small stream tumbled down from the glaciers over rough but passable hillsides. It reached the level of the great river and formed a flat area with grass and a small patch of stunted trees.

Almost before I could believe my eyes, a cloud had come up from the valley on the other side, and the plains were hidden. What wonderful luck was mine! Had I arrived five minutes later, the cloud would have been over the pass, and I should not have known of its existence. Now that the cloud was there, I began to doubt my memory, and to be uncertain whether it had been more than a blue line of distant vapour that had filled up the opening. I could only be certain of this much, namely, that the river in the valley below must be the one next to the northward of that which flowed past my master’s station; of this there could be no doubt. Could I, however, imagine that my luck should have led me up a wrong river in search of a pass, and yet brought me to the spot where I could detect the one weak place in the fortifications of a more northern basin? This was too improbable. But even as I doubted there came a rent in the cloud opposite, and a second time I saw blue lines of heaving downs, growing gradually fainter, and retiring into a far space of plain. It was substantial; there had been no mistake whatsoever. I had hardly made myself perfectly sure of this, ere the rent in the clouds joined up again and I could see nothing more.

Almost before I could believe my eyes, a cloud rose from the valley on the other side and hid the plains. What wonderful luck I had! If I had arrived five minutes later, the cloud would have covered the pass. I would never have known it existed. Now that the cloud was there, I began to doubt my memory. Had the opening held anything more than a blue line of distant mist? I could be sure of only one thing. The river in the valley below had to be the next one north of the river that flowed past my master’s station. There could be no doubt about that. But could I really have been so lucky? Could I have gone up the wrong river looking for a pass, yet reached the spot where I could see the one weak point in the natural defenses of a basin farther north? That seemed too unlikely. But even as I doubted, a gap opened in the cloud opposite me. Once again I saw blue lines of rolling hills. They grew gradually fainter as they receded into a vast, distant plain. The sight was real. There had been no mistake at all. I had hardly made certain of this before the gap in the clouds closed again, and I could see nothing more.

What, then, should I do? The night would be upon me shortly, and I was already chilled with standing still after the exertion of climbing. To stay where I was would be impossible; I must either go backwards or forwards. I found a rock which gave me shelter from the evening wind, and took a good pull at the brandy flask, which immediately warmed and encouraged me.

What should I do? Night would fall soon, and I was already cold from standing still after the climb. I could not stay where I was. I had to go either back or forward. I found a rock that sheltered me from the evening wind and took a long drink from my brandy flask. The brandy immediately warmed me and lifted my spirits.

I asked myself, Could I descend upon the river-bed beneath me? It was impossible to say what precipices might prevent my doing so. If I were on the river-bed, dare I cross the river? I am an excellent swimmer, yet, once in that frightful rush of waters, I should be hurled whithersoever it willed, absolutely powerless. Moreover, there was my swag; I should perish of cold and hunger if I left it, but I should certainly be drowned if I attempted to carry it across the river. These were serious considerations, but the hope of finding an immense tract of available sheep country (which I was determined that I would monopolise as far as I possibly could) sufficed to outweigh them; and, in a few minutes, I felt resolved that, having made so important a discovery as a pass into a country which was probably as valuable as that on our own side of the ranges, I would follow it up and ascertain its value, even though I should pay the penalty of failure with life itself. The more I thought, the more determined I became either to win fame and perhaps fortune, by entering upon this unknown world, or give up life in the attempt. In fact, I felt that life would be no longer valuable if I were to have seen so great a prize and refused to grasp at the possible profits therefrom.

I asked myself whether I could climb down to the riverbed below me. There was no way to know what cliffs might block my path. If I reached the riverbed, would I dare cross the river? I am an excellent swimmer, but that terrifying rush of water would toss me wherever it pleased. I would be completely powerless. Then there was my pack. If I left it behind, I would die of cold and hunger. But if I tried to carry it across the river, I would certainly drown. These were serious concerns. But they were outweighed by the hope of finding a vast stretch of land suitable for sheep. I was determined to claim as much of it for myself as I could. Within minutes, I had made up my mind. I had made an important discovery, a pass into a country probably as valuable as our own side of the mountains. I would explore it and find out how valuable it was, even if failure cost me my life. The more I thought about it, the more determined I became. I would enter this unknown world and win fame and perhaps fortune, or die trying. In fact, I felt that life would no longer be worth living if I saw such a great prize and refused to seize the chance of profiting from it.

I had still an hour of good daylight during which I might begin my descent on to some suitable camping-ground, but there was not a moment to be lost. At first I got along rapidly, for I was on the snow, and sank into it enough to save me from falling, though I went forward straight down the mountain side as fast as I could; but there was less snow on this side than on the other, and I had soon done with it, getting on to a coomb of dangerous and very stony ground, where a slip might have given me a disastrous fall. But I was careful with all my speed, and got safely to the bottom, where there were patches of coarse grass, and an attempt here and there at brushwood: what was below this I could not see. I advanced a few hundred yards farther, and found that I was on the brink of a frightful precipice, which no one in his senses would attempt descending. I bethought me, however, to try the creek which drained the coomb, and see whether it might not have made itself a smoother way. In a few minutes I found myself at the upper end of a chasm in the rocks, something like Twll Dhu, only on a greatly larger scale; the creek had found its way into it, and had worn a deep channel through a material which appeared softer than that upon the other side of the mountain. I believe it must have been a different geological formation, though I regret to say that I cannot tell what it was.

I still had an hour of good daylight to begin descending to a suitable campsite, but there was no time to lose. At first I moved quickly over the snow. I sank into it enough to keep from falling, though I went straight down the mountainside as fast as I could. But there was less snow on this side than on the other, and I soon left it behind. I came to a hollow filled with dangerously stony ground, where a slip could have caused a disastrous fall. But I was careful despite my speed, and reached the bottom safely. There were patches of coarse grass and a few scattered attempts at brushwood. I could not see what lay below. I went a few hundred yards farther and found myself at the edge of a terrifying cliff. No one in their right mind would try to climb down it. But I thought I might follow the creek that drained the hollow, to see if it had made a smoother way down. Within minutes I found myself at the upper end of a chasm in the rocks. It was rather like Twll Dhu, only much larger. The creek had found its way into the chasm and worn a deep channel through the rock. The rock seemed softer than that on the other side of the mountain. I believe it must have been a different geological formation, though I regret that I cannot say what it was.

I looked at this rift in great doubt; then I went a little way on either side of it, and found myself looking over the edge of horrible precipices on to the river, which roared some four or five thousand feet below me. I dared not think of getting down at all, unless I committed myself to the rift, of which I was hopeful when I reflected that the rock was soft, and that the water might have worn its channel tolerably evenly through the whole extent. The darkness was increasing with every minute, but I should have twilight for another half-hour, so I went into the chasm (though by no means without fear), and resolved to return and camp, and try some other path next day, should I come to any serious difficulty. In about five minutes I had completely lost my head; the side of the rift became hundreds of feet in height, and overhung so that I could not see the sky. It was full of rocks, and I had many falls and bruises. I was wet through from falling into the water, of which there was no great volume, but it had such force that I could do nothing against it; once I had to leap down a not inconsiderable waterfall into a deep pool below, and my swag was so heavy that I was very nearly drowned. I had indeed a hair’s-breadth escape; but, as luck would have it, Providence was on my side. Shortly afterwards I began to fancy that the rift was getting wider, and that there was more brushwood. Presently I found myself on an open grassy slope, and feeling my way a little farther along the stream, I came upon a flat place with wood, where I could camp comfortably; which was well, for it was now quite dark.

I looked at the rift with great doubt. Then I walked a little way to either side. In both directions, I found myself looking over the edge of terrible cliffs. The river roared some four or five thousand feet below me. I dared not attempt the descent unless I went down through the rift. I had some hope of making it, since the rock was soft. The water might have worn a reasonably even channel all the way through. It was growing darker by the minute, but I would have another half hour of twilight. So I entered the chasm, though not without fear. If I met any serious difficulty, I would turn back and camp, then try another path the next day. After about five minutes, I had completely lost my head. The sides of the rift rose hundreds of feet and overhung so far that I could not see the sky. The rift was full of rocks, and I fell many times and suffered many bruises. I was soaked from falling into the water. There was not much water, but it was so powerful that I could do nothing against it. At one point I had to leap down a fairly high waterfall into a deep pool. My pack was so heavy that I nearly drowned. I had indeed escaped by a hair’s breadth. But, as luck would have it, Providence was on my side. Soon afterward, I began to think the rift was growing wider and that there was more brushwood. Before long, I found myself on an open grassy slope. I felt my way a little farther along the stream and came to a flat place with wood for a fire. I could camp there comfortably, which was just as well, for it was now completely dark.

My first care was for my matches; were they dry? The outside of my swag had got completely wet; but, on undoing the blankets, I found things warm and dry within. How thankful I was! I lit a fire, and was grateful for its warmth and company. I made myself some tea and ate two of my biscuits: my brandy I did not touch, for I had little left, and might want it when my courage failed me. All that I did, I did almost mechanically, for I could not realise my situation to myself, beyond knowing that I was alone, and that return through the chasm which I had just descended would be impossible. It is a dreadful feeling that of being cut off from all one’s kind. I was still full of hope, and built golden castles for myself as soon as I was warmed with food and fire; but I do not believe that any man could long retain his reason in such solitude, unless he had the companionship of animals. One begins doubting one’s own identity.

My first concern was my matches. Were they dry? The outside of my pack was completely wet, but when I unwrapped the blankets, everything inside was warm and dry. How thankful I was! I lit a fire and was grateful for its warmth and company. I made some tea and ate two biscuits. I did not touch my brandy because I had little left, and I might need it if my courage failed. I did everything almost mechanically. I could not grasp my situation, except that I was alone and could not climb back through the chasm I had just descended. Being cut off from all other people is a dreadful feeling. I was still full of hope. As soon as food and fire had warmed me, I began building castles in the air. But I do not believe any man could stay sane for long in such solitude without the companionship of animals. You begin to doubt your own identity.

I remember deriving comfort even from the sight of my blankets, and the sound of my watch ticking—things which seemed to link me to other people; but the screaming of the wood-hens frightened me, as also a chattering bird which I had never heard before, and which seemed to laugh at me; though I soon got used to it, and before long could fancy that it was many years since I had first heard it.

I remember taking comfort even in the sight of my blankets and the sound of my watch ticking. These things seemed to connect me to other people. But the screaming of the wood-hens frightened me. So did the chatter of a bird I had never heard before, which seemed to laugh at me. Though I soon got used to it, and before long I could imagine that I had first heard it many years ago.

I took off my clothes, and wrapped my inside blanket about me, till my things were dry. The night was very still, and I made a roaring fire; so I soon got warm, and at last could put my clothes on again. Then I strapped my blanket round me, and went to sleep as near the fire as I could.

I took off my clothes and wrapped my inner blanket around me until my clothes were dry. The night was very still, and I made a roaring fire. I soon got warm and could finally put my clothes back on. Then I strapped my blanket around me and went to sleep as close to the fire as I could.

I dreamed that there was an organ placed in my master’s wool-shed: the wool-shed faded away, and the organ seemed to grow and grow amid a blaze of brilliant light, till it became like a golden city upon the side of a mountain, with rows upon rows of pipes set in cliffs and precipices, one above the other, and in mysterious caverns, like that of Fingal, within whose depths I could see the burnished pillars gleaming. In the front there was a flight of lofty terraces, at the top of which I could see a man with his head buried forward towards a key-board, and his body swaying from side to side amid the storm of huge arpeggioed harmonies that came crashing overhead and round. Then there was one who touched me on the shoulder, and said, “Do you not see? it is Handel”;—but I had hardly apprehended, and was trying to scale the terraces, and get near him, when I awoke, dazzled with the vividness and distinctness of the dream.

I dreamed that an organ stood in my master’s wool shed. The shed faded away, and the organ seemed to grow and grow amid a blaze of brilliant light. At last it looked like a golden city on the side of a mountain. Rows upon rows of pipes were set in cliffs and precipices, one above another. They were also set in mysterious caverns, like Fingal’s Cave, where I could see the polished pillars gleaming in the depths. In front was a flight of high terraces. At the top, I could see a man with his head bent forward over a keyboard. His body swayed from side to side amid a storm of great arpeggiated harmonies crashing overhead and all around. Then someone touched me on the shoulder and said, “Do you not see? It is Handel.” I had hardly understood and was trying to climb the terraces and get near him when I woke. I was dazzled by how vivid and clear the dream had been.

A piece of wood had burned through, and the ends had fallen into the ashes with a blaze: this, I supposed, had both given me my dream and robbed me of it. I was bitterly disappointed, and sitting up on my elbow, came back to reality and my strange surroundings as best I could.

A piece of wood had burned through, and its ends had fallen into the ashes, causing a blaze. I supposed the blaze had both given me my dream and taken it away. I was bitterly disappointed. I sat up on my elbow and did my best to return to reality and my strange surroundings.

I was thoroughly aroused—moreover, I felt a foreshadowing as though my attention were arrested by something more than the dream, although no sense in particular was as yet appealed to. I held my breath and waited, and then I heard—was it fancy? Nay; I listened again and again, and I did hear a faint and extremely distant sound of music, like that of an AEolian harp, borne upon the wind which was blowing fresh and chill from the opposite mountains.

I was fully awake. I also had a feeling that something more than the dream had caught my attention. Yet none of my senses had picked up anything in particular. I held my breath and waited. Then I heard something. Was I imagining it? No. I listened again and again, and I did hear a faint, extremely distant sound of music. It sounded like an Aeolian harp, carried on the fresh, cold wind blowing from the mountains opposite.

The roots of my hair thrilled. I listened, but the wind had died; and, fancying that it must have been the wind itself—no; on a sudden I remembered the noise which Chowbok had made in the wool-shed. Yes; it was that.

The roots of my hair tingled. I listened, but the wind had died down. I thought it must have been the wind itself. No, suddenly I remembered the noise Chowbok had made in the wool shed. Yes, that was it.

Thank Heaven, whatever it was, it was over now. I reasoned with myself, and recovered my firmness. I became convinced that I had only been dreaming more vividly than usual. Soon I began even to laugh, and think what a fool I was to be frightened at nothing, reminding myself that even if I were to come to a bad end it would be no such dreadful matter after all. I said my prayers, a duty which I had too often neglected, and in a little time fell into a really refreshing sleep, which lasted till broad daylight, and restored me. I rose, and searching among the embers of my fire, I found a few live coals and soon had a blaze again. I got breakfast, and was delighted to have the company of several small birds, which hopped about me and perched on my boots and hands. I felt comparatively happy, but I can assure the reader that I had had a far worse time of it than I have told him; and I strongly recommend him to remain in Europe if he can; or, at any rate, in some country which has been explored and settled, rather than go into places where others have not been before him. Exploring is delightful to look forward to and back upon, but it is not comfortable at the time, unless it be of such an easy nature as not to deserve the name.

Thank Heaven, whatever it was, it was over now. I reasoned with myself and regained my composure. I became convinced that I had only been dreaming more vividly than usual. Soon I even began to laugh and think what a fool I was to be frightened of nothing. I reminded myself that even if I came to a bad end, it would not be so dreadful after all. I said my prayers, a duty I had neglected too often. Before long, I fell into a truly refreshing sleep that lasted until broad daylight and restored me. I got up and searched the ashes of my fire. I found a few live coals and soon had a fire blazing again. I made breakfast and was delighted to have the company of several small birds. They hopped around me and perched on my boots and hands. I felt fairly happy, but I assure the reader that I had had a much worse time than I have described. I strongly recommend staying in Europe if possible. Or, at any rate, stay in a country that has been explored and settled, rather than going where no one has been before. Exploring is delightful to look forward to and to look back on. But it is uncomfortable at the time, unless it is so easy that it hardly deserves the name.