Chapter 19

NEW YEAR IN THE CRIMEA—GOOD NEWS—THE ARMISTICE—BARTER WITH THE RUSSIANS—WAR AND PEACE—TIDINGS OF PEACE—EXCURSIONS INTO THE INTERIOR OF THE CRIMEA—TO SIMPHEROPOL, BAKTCHISERAI, ETC.—THE TROOPS BEGIN TO LEAVE THE CRIMEA—FRIENDS’ FAREWELLS—THE CEMETERIES—WE REMOVE FROM SPRING HILL TO BALACLAVA—ALARMING SACRIFICE OF OUR STOCK—A LAST GLIMPSE OF SEBASTOPOL—HOME!

NEW YEAR IN THE CRIMEA. GOOD NEWS. THE ARMISTICE. TRADING WITH THE RUSSIANS. WAR AND PEACE. NEWS OF PEACE. TRIPS INTO THE INTERIOR OF THE CRIMEA. TO SIMPHEROPOL, BAKTCHISERAI, AND OTHER PLACES. THE TROOPS BEGIN TO LEAVE THE CRIMEA. FAREWELLS TO FRIENDS. THE CEMETERIES. WE MOVE FROM SPRING HILL TO BALACLAVA. SELLING OUR STOCK AT ALARMINGLY LOW PRICES. A LAST LOOK AT SEBASTOPOL. HOME!

Before the New Year was far advanced we all began to think of going home, making sure that peace would soon be concluded. And never did more welcome message come anywhere than that which brought us intelligence of the armistice, and the firing, which had grown more and more slack lately, ceased altogether. Of course the army did not desire peace because they had any distaste for fighting; so far from it, I believe the only more welcome intelligence would have been news of a campaign in the field, but they were most heartily weary of sieges, and the prospect of another year before the gloomy north of Sebastopol damped the ardour of the most sanguine. Before the armistice was signed, the Russians and their old foes made advances of friendship, and the banks of the Tchernaya used to be thronged with strangers, and many strange acquaintances were thus began. I was one of the first to ride down to the Tchernaya, and very much delighted seemed the Russians to see an English woman. I wonder if they thought they all had my complexion. I soon entered heartily into the then current amusement—that of exchanging coin, etc., with the Russians. I stole a march upon my companions by making the sign of the cross upon my bosom, upon which a Russian threw me, in exchange for some pence, a little metal figure of some ugly saint. Then we wrapped up halfpence in clay, and received coins of less value in exchange. Seeing a soldier eating some white bread, I made signs of wanting some, and threw over a piece of money. I had great difficulty in making the man understand me, but after considerable pantomime, with surprise in his round bullet eyes, he wrapped up his bread in some paper, then coated it with clay and sent it over to me. I thought it would look well beside my brown bread taken from the strange oven in the terrible Redan, and that the two would typify war and peace. There was a great traffic going on in such things, and a wag of an officer, who could talk Russian imperfectly, set himself to work to persuade an innocent Russian that I was his wife, and having succeeded in doing so promptly offered to dispose of me for the medal hanging at his breast.

Not long after the New Year began, we all started thinking of going home. We were sure that peace would soon be made. No message could have been more welcome than the news of the armistice. The firing, which had been growing less frequent lately, stopped altogether. Of course, the army did not want peace because the soldiers disliked fighting. Far from it. I believe only news of a campaign in the field would have been more welcome. But they were thoroughly tired of sieges. The prospect of another year facing the gloomy north side of Sebastopol discouraged even the most hopeful. Before the armistice was signed, the Russians and their old enemies began making friendly approaches. The banks of the Tchernaya were often crowded with strangers, and many unusual acquaintances began there. I was one of the first to ride down to the Tchernaya. The Russians seemed delighted to see an English woman. I wonder if they thought all English women had my complexion. I soon joined enthusiastically in the popular amusement of exchanging coins and other things with the Russians. I got ahead of my companions by making the sign of the cross over my chest. A Russian then threw me a little metal figure of some ugly saint in exchange for a few pence. We also wrapped halfpence in clay and received less valuable coins in exchange. I saw a soldier eating some white bread. I signaled that I wanted some and threw over a coin. I had great difficulty making the man understand me. But after a great deal of miming, he wrapped his bread in paper, coated it with clay, and sent it over to me. His round, bullet-like eyes showed his surprise. I thought the white bread would look well beside my brown bread from the strange oven in the terrible Redan. The two would stand for war and peace. There was a great deal of trading in such things. One joking officer, who spoke some Russian, set out to persuade an innocent Russian that I was his wife. Once he had succeeded, the officer promptly offered to sell me for the medal hanging on the Russian's chest.

The last firing of any consequence was the salutes with which the good tidings of peace were received by army and navy. After this soon began the home-going with happy faces and light hearts, and some kind thoughts and warm tears for the comrades left behind.

The last significant firing was the salutes from the army and navy to welcome the good news of peace. Soon afterward, people began going home with happy faces and light hearts. They also had some kind thoughts and shed warm tears for the comrades they left behind.

I was very glad to hear of peace, also, although it must have been apparent to every one that it would cause our ruin. We had lately made extensive additions to our store and out-houses—our shelves were filled with articles laid in at a great cost, and which were now unsaleable, and which it would be equally impossible to carry home. Everything, from our stud of horses and mules down to our latest consignments from home, must be sold for any price; and, as it happened, for many things, worth a year ago their weight in gold, no purchaser could now be found. However, more of this hereafter.

I was also very glad to hear of peace, although everyone must have realized that it would ruin us. We had recently greatly expanded our store and outbuildings. Our shelves were filled with goods we had bought at great expense. Now we could neither sell them nor take them home. Everything had to be sold for whatever price we could get, from our horses and mules to our latest shipments from home. As it turned out, we could not find buyers for many things that, a year earlier, had been worth their weight in gold. However, I will say more about this later.

Before leaving the Crimea, I made various excursions into the interior, visiting Simpheropol and Baktchiserai. I travelled to Simpheropol with a pretty large party, and had a very amusing journey. My companions were young and full of fun, and tried hard to persuade the Russians that I was Queen Victoria, by paying me the most absurd reverence. When this failed they fell back a little, and declared that I was the Queen’s first cousin. Anyhow, they attracted crowds about me, and I became quite a lioness in the streets of Simpheropol, until the arrival of some Highlanders in their uniform cut me out.

Before leaving the Crimea, I made several trips inland, visiting Simpheropol and Baktchiserai. I traveled to Simpheropol with a fairly large group, and we had a very entertaining journey. My companions were young and playful. They tried hard to convince the Russians that I was Queen Victoria by treating me with absurd reverence. When that failed, they lowered their claim and said I was the Queen’s first cousin. In any case, they drew crowds around me, and I became quite a sensation in the streets of Simpheropol. Then some Highlanders arrived in uniform and stole the attention from me.

My excursion to Baktchiserai was still more amusing and pleasant. I found it necessary to go to beat up a Russian merchant, who, after the declaration of peace, had purchased stores of us, and some young officers made up a party for the purpose. We hired an araba, filled it with straw, and some boxes to sit upon, and set out very early, with two old umbrellas to shield us from the mid-day sun and the night dews. We had with us a hamper carefully packed, before parting, with a cold duck, some cold meat, a tart, etc. The Tartar’s two horses were soon knocked up, and the fellow obtained a third at a little village, and so we rolled on until mid-day, when, thoroughly exhausted, we left our clumsy vehicle and carried our hamper beneath the shade of a beautiful cherry-tree, and determined to lunch. Upon opening it the first thing that met our eyes was a fine rat, who made a speedy escape. Somewhat gravely, we proceeded to unpack its contents, without caring to express our fears to one another, and quite soon enough we found them realized. How or where the rat had gained access to our hamper it was impossible to say, but he had made no bad use of his time, and both wings of the cold duck had flown, while the tart was considerably mangled. Sad discovery this for people who, although, hungry, were still squeamish. We made out as well as we could with the cold beef, and gave the rest to our Tartar driver, who had apparently no disinclination to eating after the rat, and would very likely have despised us heartily for such weakness. After dinner we went on more briskly, and succeeded in reaching Baktchiserai. My journey was perfectly unavailing. I could not find my debtor at home, and if I had I was told it would take three weeks before the Russian law would assist me to recover my claim. Determined, however, to have some compensation, I carried off a raven, who had been croaking angrily at my intrusion. Before we had been long on our homeward journey, however, Lieut. C—— sat upon it, of course accidentally, and we threw it to its relatives—the crows.

My excursion to Baktchiserai was even more amusing and pleasant. I needed to track down a Russian merchant who had bought supplies from us after peace was declared. Some young officers joined me for the trip. We hired an araba, filled it with straw and put in some boxes to sit on. We set out very early, taking two old umbrellas for shelter from the midday sun and the night dew. Before we left, we carefully packed a hamper with a cold duck, some cold meat, a tart, and other things. The Tartar driver’s two horses were soon exhausted, so he found a third in a little village. We rolled on until midday, when we were thoroughly exhausted. We left our clumsy vehicle, carried our hamper into the shade of a beautiful cherry tree, and decided to have lunch. When we opened the hamper, the first thing we saw was a fine rat, which quickly escaped. Rather solemnly, we began unpacking the food, without wanting to tell one another what we feared. Soon enough, our fears were confirmed. We could not say how or where the rat had got into the hamper, but he had made good use of his time. Both wings of the cold duck had flown, and the tart was badly mangled. This was a sad discovery for people who were hungry but still squeamish. We made do with the cold beef and gave the rest to our Tartar driver. He apparently had no objection to eating food the rat had touched. He would very likely have heartily despised us for such weakness. After dinner, we went on more briskly and managed to reach Baktchiserai. My journey was completely in vain. I could not find my debtor at home. I was also told that, even if I had found him, it would take three weeks for Russian law to help me recover what he owed. Determined to have some compensation, however, I carried off a raven that had been croaking angrily at my intrusion. We had not been on our way home long, however, when Lieut. C—— sat on it, accidentally of course, and we threw it to its relatives, the crows.

As the spring advanced, the troops began to move away at a brisk pace. As they passed the Iron House upon the Col—old for the Crimea, where so much of life’s action had been compressed into so short a space of time—they would stop and give us a parting cheer, while very often the band struck up some familiar tune of that home they were so gladly seeking. And very often the kind-hearted officers would find time to run into the British Hotel to bid us good-bye, and give us a farewell shake of the hand; for you see war, like death, is a great leveller, and mutual suffering and endurance had made us all friends. “My dear Mrs. Seacole, and my dear Mr. Day,” wrote one on a scrap of paper left on the counter, “I have called here four times this day, to wish you good-bye. I am so sorry I was not fortunate enough to see you. I shall still hope to see you to-morrow morning. We march at seven a.m.”

As spring went on, the troops began to leave at a brisk pace. As they passed the Iron House on the Col, they would stop and give us a farewell cheer. The Iron House was old for the Crimea, where so much of life’s action had been packed into so little time. Very often, the band played a familiar tune from the home they were so glad to be returning to. Kind officers also often found time to come into the British Hotel to say goodbye and shake our hands. You see, war, like death, is a great leveller, and shared suffering and endurance had made us all friends. One officer left a note on the counter: “My dear Mrs. Seacole, and my dear Mr. Day, I have called here four times today to say goodbye. I am so sorry I was not lucky enough to see you. I still hope to see you tomorrow morning. We march at seven a.m.”

And yet all this going home seemed strange and somewhat sad, and sometimes I felt that I could not sympathise with the glad faces and happy hearts of those who were looking forward to the delights of home, and the joy of seeing once more the old familiar faces remembered so fondly in the fearful trenches and the hard-fought battle-fields. Now and then we would see a lounger with a blank face, taking no interest in the bustle of departure, and with him I acknowledged to have more fellow-feeling than with the others, for he, as well as I, clearly had no home to go to. He was a soldier by choice and necessity, as well as by profession. He had no home, no loved friends; the peace would bring no particular pleasure to him, whereas war and action were necessary to his existence, gave him excitement, occupation, the chance of promotion. Now and then, but seldom, however, you came across such a disappointed one. Was it not so with me? Had I not been happy through the months of toil and danger, never knowing what fear or depression was, finding every moment of the day mortgaged hours in advance, and earning sound sleep and contentment by sheer hard work? What better or happier lot could possibly befall me? And, alas! how likely was it that my present occupation gone, I might long in vain for another so stirring and so useful. Besides which, it was pretty sure that I should go to England poorer than I left it, and although I was not ashamed of poverty, beginning life again in the autumn—I mean late in the summer of life—is hard up-hill work.

And yet, all this going home seemed strange and somewhat sad. Sometimes I felt unable to share the joy of those who were looking forward to home. They would see again the familiar faces they had remembered so fondly in the fearful trenches and on the hard-fought battlefields. Now and then, we would see someone standing idly with a blank face, taking no interest in the bustle of departure. I felt more sympathy with him than with the others, for he, like me, clearly had no home to go to. He was a soldier by choice and necessity, as well as by profession. He had no home and no loved friends. Peace would bring him no particular pleasure. War and action, on the other hand, were necessary to his existence. They gave him excitement, something to do, and the chance of promotion. Now and then, though rarely, you came across someone disappointed in this way. Was it not the same with me? Had I not been happy through those months of hard work and danger? I had never known fear or depression. Every moment of my day was spoken for hours in advance, and sheer hard work earned me sound sleep and contentment. What better or happier life could I possibly have? And, alas, with my present work gone, I might well long in vain for something else so exciting and useful. Besides, I was almost certain to return to England poorer than when I left. Although I was not ashamed of poverty, starting life again in the autumn of life is hard uphill work. I mean, of course, late in the summer of life.

Peace concluded, the little jealousies which may have sprung up between the French and their allies seemed forgotten, and every one was anxious, ere the parting came, to make the most of the time yet left in improving old friendships and founding new. Among others, the 47th, encamped near the Woronzoff Road, gave a grand parting entertainment to a large company of their French neighbours, at which many officers of high rank were present. I was applied to by the committee of management to superintend the affair, and, for the last time in the Crimea, the health of Madame Seacole was proposed and duly honoured. I had grown so accustomed to the honour that I had no difficulty in returning thanks in a speech which Colonel B—— interpreted amid roars of laughter to the French guests.

Once peace was made, the small jealousies that may have arisen between the French and their allies seemed forgotten. Before parting, everyone was eager to make the most of the time left, strengthening old friendships and forming new ones. Among others, the 47th, encamped near the Woronzoff Road, gave a grand farewell entertainment for many of their French neighbours. Many high-ranking officers attended. The organizing committee asked me to oversee the event. There, for the last time in the Crimea, a toast was proposed to Madame Seacole and duly honoured. I had grown so used to the honour that I had no difficulty giving a speech of thanks. Colonel B—— interpreted my speech for the French guests, amid roars of laughter.

As the various regiments moved off, I received many acknowledgments from those who thought they owed me gratitude. Little presents, warm farewell words, kind letters full of grateful acknowledgments for services so small that I had forgotten them long, long ago—how easy it is to reach warm hearts!—little thoughtful acts of kindness, even from the humblest. And these touched me the most. I value the letters received from the working men far more than the testimonials of their officers. I had nothing to gain from the former, and can point to their testimony fearlessly. I am strongly tempted to insert some of these acknowledgments, but I will confine myself to one:—

As the various regiments left, many people who felt they owed me thanks showed their gratitude. They gave me small presents, warm words of farewell, and kind letters thanking me for services so small that I had forgotten them long ago. How easy it is to reach warm hearts! Even the humblest people showed me thoughtful kindness, and their kindness touched me the most. I value the letters from the working men far more than the testimonials from their officers. I had nothing to gain from the working men, and I can point to their testimony without fear. I am strongly tempted to include some of these expressions of gratitude, but I will limit myself to one:

But I had other friends in the Crimea—friends who could never thank me. Some of them lay in their last sleep, beneath indistinguishable mounds of earth; some in the half-filled trenches, a few beneath the blue waters of the Euxine. I might in vain attempt to gather the wild flowers which sprung up above many of their graves, but I knew where some lay, and could visit their last homes on earth. And to all the cemeteries where friends rested so calmly, sleeping well after a life’s work nobly done, I went many times, lingering long over many a mound that bore the names of those whom I had been familiar with in life, thinking of what they had been, and what I had known of them. Over some I planted shrubs and flowers, little lilac trees, obtained with no small trouble, and flowering evergreens, which looked quite gay and pretty ere I left, and may in time become great trees, and witness strange scenes, or be cut down as fuel for another besieging army—who can tell? And from many graves I picked up pebbles, and plucked simple wild-flowers, or tufts of grass, as memorials for relatives at home. How pretty the cemeteries used to look beneath the blue peaceful sky; neatly enclosed with stone walls, and full of the grave-stones reared by friends over friends. I met many here, thoughtfully taking their last look of the resting-places of those they knew and loved. I saw many a proud head bowed down above them. I knew that many a proud heart laid aside its pride here, and stood in the presence of death, humble and childlike. And by the clasped hand and moistened eye, I knew that from many a heart sped upward a grateful prayer to the Providence which had thought fit in his judgment to take some, and in his mercy to spare the rest.

But I had other friends in the Crimea, friends who could never thank me. Some lay in their final sleep beneath mounds of earth that could not be told apart. Some lay in half-filled trenches, and a few beneath the blue waters of the Euxine. I could not have gathered the wildflowers growing over many of their graves, however hard I tried. But I knew where some lay and could visit their last homes on earth. I visited all the cemeteries where friends rested so calmly, sleeping well after a life’s work nobly done. I went many times and lingered over many mounds bearing the names of people I had known in life. I thought about who they had been and what I had known of them. On some graves I planted shrubs and flowers, including little lilac trees that I had gone to considerable trouble to obtain. I also planted flowering evergreens. They looked cheerful and pretty before I left, and they may become great trees in time. They may witness strange scenes or be cut down for fuel by another besieging army. Who can tell? From many graves I gathered pebbles, simple wildflowers, or tufts of grass as keepsakes for relatives at home. How pretty the cemeteries used to look beneath the peaceful blue sky. They were neatly enclosed by stone walls and full of gravestones raised by friends for friends. I met many people there, thoughtfully taking a last look at the resting places of those they knew and loved. I saw many proud heads bowed over those graves. I knew that many proud hearts set aside their pride there and stood before death, humble and childlike. From clasped hands and tearful eyes, I knew that many hearts sent grateful prayers up to Providence. In his judgment, he had seen fit to take some, and in his mercy, to spare the rest.

Some three weeks before the Crimea was finally evacuated, we moved from our old quarters to Balaclava, where we had obtained permission to fit up a store for the short time which would elapse before the last red coat left Russian soil. The poor old British Hotel! We could do nothing with it. The iron house was pulled down, and packed up for conveyance home, but the Russians got all of the out-houses and sheds which was not used as fuel. All the kitchen fittings and stoves, that had cost us so much, fell also into their hands. I only wish some cook worthy to possess them has them now. We could sell nothing. Our horses were almost given away, our large stores of provisions, etc., were at any one’s service. It makes my heart sick to talk of the really alarming sacrifices we made. The Russians crowded down ostensibly to purchase, in reality to plunder. Prime cheeses, which had cost us tenpence a pound, were sold to them for less than a penny a pound; for wine, for which we had paid forty-eight shillings a dozen, they bid four shillings. I could not stand this, and in a fit of desperation, I snatched up a hammer and broke up case after case, while the bystanders held out their hands and caught the ruby stream. It may have been wrong, but I was too excited to think. There was no more of my own people to give it to, and I would rather not present it to our old foes.

About three weeks before the final evacuation of the Crimea, we moved from our old quarters to Balaclava. We had permission to set up a store there for the short time before the last British soldier left Russian soil. The poor old British Hotel! We could do nothing with it. The iron house was taken down and packed up to be sent home. But the Russians got everything from the outbuildings and sheds that was not used as fuel. They also got all the kitchen fittings and stoves that had cost us so much. I only hope some cook worthy of them has them now. We could sell nothing. We almost gave our horses away, and anyone could help themselves to our large stores of provisions and other goods. It makes my heart sick to talk about the truly alarming losses we suffered. The Russians crowded in, supposedly to buy, but really to plunder. We sold them fine cheeses that had cost us tenpence a pound for less than a penny a pound. For wine we had paid forty-eight shillings a dozen, they offered four shillings. I could not stand it. In desperation, I grabbed a hammer and smashed case after case of wine. The bystanders held out their hands and caught the ruby stream. It may have been wrong, but I was too excited to think. There were no more of my own people to give the wine to, and I would rather not give it to our old enemies.

We were among the last to leave the Crimea. Before going I borrowed a horse, easy enough now, and rode up the old well-known road—how unfamiliar in its loneliness and quiet—to Cathcart’s Hill. I wished once more to impress the scene upon my mind. It was a beautifully clear evening, and we could see miles away across the darkening sea. I spent some time there with my companions, pointing out to each other the sites of scenes we all remembered so well. There were the trenches, already becoming indistinguishable, out of which, on the 8th of September, we had seen the storming parties tumble in confused and scattered bodies, before they ran up the broken height of the Redan. There the Malakhoff, into which we had also seen the luckier French pour in one unbroken stream; below lay the crumbling city and the quiet harbour, with scarce a ripple on its surface, while around stretched away the deserted huts for miles. It was with something like regret that we said to one another that the play was fairly over, that peace had rung the curtain down, and that we, humble actors in some of its most stirring scenes, must seek engagements elsewhere.

We were among the last to leave the Crimea. Before leaving, I borrowed a horse, which was easy enough to do now. I rode up the familiar old road to Cathcart’s Hill. The road seemed so unfamiliar in its loneliness and quiet. I wanted to fix the scene in my mind once more. The evening was beautifully clear, and we could see for miles across the darkening sea. I spent some time there with my companions. We pointed out to each other the places where scenes we all remembered so well had happened. There were the trenches, already becoming hard to make out. On the 8th of September, we had seen the assault troops tumble out of them in confused, scattered groups. Then they ran up the broken slope of the Redan. There, too, was the Malakhoff. We had seen the luckier French troops pour into it in one unbroken stream. Below lay the crumbling city and the quiet harbour, with hardly a ripple on its surface. All around, deserted huts stretched away for miles. We said to one another, with something like regret, that the play was truly over. Peace had brought down the curtain, and we, humble actors in some of its most stirring scenes, must find work elsewhere.

I lingered behind, and stooping down, once more gathered little tufts of grass, and some simple blossoms from above the graves of some who in life had been very kind to me, and I left behind, in exchange, a few tears which were sincere.

I stayed behind and bent down to gather small tufts of grass and a few simple flowers once more. They grew on the graves of some people who had been very kind to me in life. In exchange, I left behind a few sincere tears.

A few days latter, and I stood on board a crowded steamer, taking my last look of the shores of the Crimea.

A few days later, I stood on a crowded steamer, taking one last look at the shores of the Crimea.