Part 1, Chapter 23

The Great Exhibition

3 min

There was a great Exhibition at Paris in 1890. I had read about its elaborate preparations, and I also had a keen desire to see Paris. So I thought I had better combine two things in one and go there at this juncture. A particular attraction of the Exhibition was the Eiffel Tower, constructed entirely of iron, and nearly 1,000 feet high. There were of course many other things of interest, but the Tower was the chief one, inasmuch as it had been supposed till then that structure of that height could not safely stand.

There was a great Exhibition in Paris in 1890. I had read about its elaborate preparations, and I was also eager to see Paris. So I thought I should combine the two and go there then. A particular attraction at the Exhibition was the Eiffel Tower. It was made entirely of iron and stood nearly 1,000 feet high. There were, of course, many other things of interest, but the Tower was the main attraction. Until then, people had thought that a structure so tall could not stand safely.

I had heard of a vegetarian restaurant in Paris. I engaged a room there and stayed seven days. I managed everything very economically, both the journey to Paris and the sight-seeing there. This I did mostly on foot and with the help of a map of Paris, as also a map of and guide to the Exhibition. These were enough to direct one to the main streets and chief places of interest.

I had heard of a vegetarian restaurant in Paris. I rented a room there and stayed for seven days. I managed both the journey to Paris and the sightseeing very economically. I did most of my sightseeing on foot, using a map of Paris and a map and guide to the Exhibition. These were enough to show me the main streets and the chief places of interest.

I remember nothing of the Exhibition: excepting its magnitude and variety. I have a fair recollection of the Eiffel Tower as I ascended it twice or thrice. There was a restaurant on the first platform, and just for the satisfaction of being able to say that I had had my lunch at a great height I threw away seven shillings on it.

I remember nothing about the Exhibition except its size and variety. I remember the Eiffel Tower fairly well because I went up it two or three times. There was a restaurant on the first platform. I wasted seven shillings on lunch there, just so I could say I had eaten at a great height.

The ancient churches of Paris are still in my memory. Their grandeur and their peacefulness are unforgettable. The wonderful construction of Notre Dame and the elaborate decoration of the interior with its beautiful sculptures cannot be forgotten. I felt then that those who expended millions on such divine cathedrals could not but have the love of God in their hearts.

I still remember the ancient churches of Paris. Their grandeur and peace are unforgettable. I cannot forget the wonderful construction of Notre Dame or its richly decorated interior and beautiful sculptures. I felt then that those who spent millions on such divine cathedrals must have had love for God in their hearts.

I had read a lot about the fashions and frivolity of Paris. These were in evidence in every street, but the churches stood noticeably apart from these scenes. A man would forget the outside noise and bustle as soon as he entered one of these churches. His manner would change, he would behave with dignity and reverence as he passed some one kneeling before the image of the Virgin. The feeling I had then has since been growing on me, that all this kneeling and prayer could not be mere superstition; the devout souls kneeling before the Virgin could not be worshipping mere marble. They were fired with genuine devotion and they worshipped not stone, but the divinity of which it was symbolic. I have an impression that I felt then that by this worship they were not detracting from, but increasing, the glory of God.

I had read a lot about the fashions and frivolity of Paris. They were visible in every street, but the churches stood noticeably apart from all this. As soon as a person entered a church, he would forget the noise and bustle outside. His manner would change. He would behave with dignity and reverence as he passed someone kneeling before the image of the Virgin. I felt then, and have felt it more strongly since, that all this kneeling and prayer could not be mere superstition. The devout people kneeling before the Virgin could not be worshipping mere marble. They were filled with genuine devotion. They worshipped not the stone, but the divinity it represented. I believe I felt then that their worship did not diminish the glory of God, but increased it.

I must say a word about the Eiffel Tower. I do not know what purpose it serves today. But I then heard it greatly disparaged as well as praised. I remember that Tolstoy was the chief among those who disparaged it. He said that the Eiffel Tower was a monument of man’s folly, not of his wisdom. Tobacco, he argued, was the worst of all intoxicants, inasmuch as a man addicted to it was tempted to commit crimes which a drunkard never dared to do; liquor made a man mad, but tobacco clouded his intellect and made him build castles in the air. The Eiffel Tower was one of those creations of a man under such influence. There is no art about the Eiffel Tower. In no way can it be said to have contributed to the real beauty of the Exhibition. Men flocked to see it, and ascended it as it was a novelty and of unique dimensions. It was the toy of the Exhibition. So long as we are children we are attracted by toys, and the Tower was a good demonstration of the fact that we are all children attracted by trinkets. That may be claimed to be the purpose served by the Eiffel Tower.

I must say something about the Eiffel Tower. I do not know what purpose it serves today. But at the time, I heard it criticized as much as it was praised. I remember that Tolstoy was the leading critic. He said the Eiffel Tower was a monument to human folly, not wisdom. He argued that tobacco was the worst of all intoxicants. A person addicted to tobacco was tempted to commit crimes a drunkard would never dare commit. Liquor drove people mad, but tobacco clouded their minds and made them build castles in the air. The Eiffel Tower was one such creation by a man under tobacco’s influence. There is no art in the Eiffel Tower. It cannot be said to have added anything to the Exhibition’s real beauty. People flocked to see it and went up it because it was new and uniquely large. It was the Exhibition’s toy. As long as we are children, we are attracted to toys. The Tower was a good demonstration that we are all children attracted to trinkets. That may be said to be the purpose the Eiffel Tower served.