Chapter 4

8 min

HIS JOURNEY TO ROME, VENICE, JERUSALEM, AND THE HOLY LAND

After a voyage of five days and nights the vessel in which they set out from Barcelona reached Gaeta, and the pilgrim disembarked and started for Rome, although there was danger there on account of the plague. After reaching the city, he found the gates closed. He spent the night in a damp church, and in the morning sought to enter the city, but could not obtain permission. As no alms could be obtained outside of the city, he wished to go on to a neighboring village, but for sheer weakness, the pilgrim could go no farther. On that day it happened that a great procession came out of the city. On inquiry the pilgrim learned that the Duchess was in the throng. He approached her, told her that his malady was simply the effect of weakness, and asked permission to enter the city to get relief. She readily consented. He was successful and his strength returned, and two days later he resumed his journey, reaching Rome on Palm Sunday.

After five days and nights at sea, the ship that had left Barcelona reached Gaeta. The pilgrim went ashore and set out for Rome, although the plague made it dangerous. When he reached the city, he found the gates closed. He spent the night in a damp church. The next morning, he tried to enter the city, but could not get permission. Since he could not get any alms outside the city, he wanted to go on to a nearby village. But the pilgrim was too weak to go any farther. That day, a large procession came out of the city. The pilgrim asked about it and learned that the Duchess was among the crowd. He approached her and explained that his illness was simply the result of weakness. He asked permission to enter the city for help. She readily agreed. He received help and regained his strength. Two days later, he continued his journey and reached Rome on Palm Sunday.

Those whom he met at Rome knew he had no money for his journey to Jerusalem. They tried to dissuade him from his undertaking, alleging that such a journey was impossible without money. He felt assured, however, that everything needed for his voyage would be at hand when required. Accordingly, on the octave of Easter, he received the blessing of Adrian VI and left Rome for Venice. He had in his possession six or seven pieces of gold which they had given him to pay his passage from Venice as far as Jerusalem. He had taken this money with him from Venice only because they had convinced him that without it he could not reach Jerusalem. On the third day from the time he set out from Rome, he realized that this fear had come from a want of confidence, and was sorry he had accepted the money, and was deliberating about giving it away. Finally, however, he determined to spend it on those he met, who were chiefly beggars. The result was that when he came to Venice he had only four coins left, and these were necessary for his lodging that night.

The people he met in Rome knew he had no money for his journey to Jerusalem. They tried to persuade him not to go, saying the journey was impossible without money. But he felt sure that everything he needed for the journey would be available when he needed it. So, on the octave of Easter, he received the blessing of Adrian VI and left Rome for Venice. He had six or seven gold coins that people had given him to pay for his passage from Venice to Jerusalem. He had taken the money from Venice only because they had convinced him that he could not reach Jerusalem without it. On the third day after leaving Rome, he realized that this fear came from a lack of confidence. He was sorry he had accepted the money and considered giving it away. Finally, he decided to spend it on the people he met, most of whom were beggars. As a result, when he reached Venice, he had only four coins left. He needed them to pay for his lodging that night.

On this journey to Venice, on account of sentinels placed around the cities, he was obliged to sleep outside the walls. The dread of the pestilence was so great that one morning on rising he saw a man fleeing from him in terror. Pursuing his journey, he reached Chizoa with several others who had joined him on the road. There he learned that he would not be allowed to enter the city. He then proceeded with his companions to Padua, to get the testimony of a notary that the party was not stricken with the plague. Ignatius could not, on account of his weakness, keep pace with the others, and was left alone in an open field. Then Christ appeared to him, as He had appeared on former occasions. By this vision he was greatly strengthened and consoled. The next morning, filled with new courage, he came to the gate of the city, and although provided with no certificate, entered unquestioned by the guard. In the same way he left the city unquestioned. His companions were surprised at this, for they had to present a certificate, which he had taken no pains to procure. At Venice they begged their food, and slept in St. Mark's Square. Ignatius refused to go to the house of the Ambassador, and although he made no effort to get money for his voyage to Jerusalem, he felt sure nevertheless that God would provide him with means.

On the journey to Venice, guards were stationed around the cities, so Ignatius had to sleep outside their walls. People were so afraid of the plague that one morning, when he got up, he saw a man fleeing from him in terror. As he continued his journey, others joined him on the road, and they reached Chizoa together. There he learned that he would not be allowed into the city. He and his companions then went on to Padua. They wanted a notary to certify that none of them had the plague. Ignatius was too weak to keep up with the others, and he was left alone in an open field. Then Christ appeared to him, as he had on earlier occasions. The vision greatly strengthened and comforted him. The next morning, filled with new courage, Ignatius came to the city gate. Although he had no certificate, he entered without being questioned by the guard. He also left the city without being questioned. His companions were surprised, because they had to present a certificate, while he had made no effort to obtain one. In Venice, they begged for food and slept in St. Mark's Square. Ignatius refused to go to the Ambassador's house. Although he made no effort to get money for his voyage to Jerusalem, he was sure that God would provide the means.

One day he met a rich Spaniard, who asked him whither he was going, and having learned his intention, brought him to dine at his house. Here he remained for several days. From the time he left Manresa, Ignatius, while seated at table with others, had made it a practice never to speak except to give a brief answer to questions. However, he heard all that was said, and took occasion after dinner to give the conversation a spiritual turn. His host and all his family were so filled with admiration for him that they tried to induce him to remain with them, and introduced him to the Doge of Venice. The latter offered him accommodations on the government ship about to sail for Cyprus. Many pilgrims had assembled at Venice to go to Jerusalem, but the greater part hesitated through fear, as the Island of Rhodes had fallen into the hands of the Turks. Thirteen sailed in the pilgrims' ship, which was the first to weigh anchor. The government ship carried eight or nine. About the time of departure Ignatius was taken ill with a fever, which lasted several days. On the day of sailing he took the prescribed medicine, and asked the doctor if he could go. The doctor replied he could if he wished the vessel to be his tomb. Nevertheless he went on board, and after a fit of illness soon recovered.

One day, Ignatius met a rich Spaniard who asked where he was going. When the Spaniard learned of his plans, he invited him to dine at his house. Ignatius stayed there for several days. Since leaving Manresa, Ignatius had made a practice of speaking at meals only to give brief answers to questions. But he listened to everything that was said. After dinner, he would find an opportunity to turn the conversation to spiritual matters. His host and the whole family admired him so much that they tried to persuade him to stay. They also introduced him to the Doge of Venice. The Doge offered him a place on the government ship that was about to sail for Cyprus. Many pilgrims had gathered in Venice to travel to Jerusalem. But most hesitated because they were afraid, as the Island of Rhodes had fallen to the Turks. Thirteen sailed on the pilgrims' ship, which was the first to leave. The government ship carried eight or nine pilgrims. Around the time of departure, Ignatius fell ill with a fever that lasted several days. On the day of sailing, he took the medicine prescribed for him and asked the doctor whether he could go. The doctor replied that he could, if he wanted the ship to be his tomb. Nevertheless, Ignatius went on board. After a bout of illness, he soon recovered.

The licentious conduct of those on board Ignatius severely censured. The Spaniards advised him not to do this, as the rest thought of abandoning him on an island. But the wind quickly conveyed them to Cyprus. From Cyprus they went to another port called Salinae, ten leagues distant. Here he went on board the ship of the pilgrims, with no other provision than his hope in Providence. During all that voyage, the Lord often appeared to him, and gave him great consolation. The visions seemed to take the form of something large, round, and golden. The travelers reached Joppa, and seated on asses, after the custom of that region, they journeyed to Jerusalem. A noble Spanish gentleman, named Didacus Minez, as the pilgrims came in sight of the city, recommended silence and recollection.

Ignatius strongly criticized the immoral behavior of those on board. The Spaniards advised him not to do so, because the others were thinking of abandoning him on an island. But the wind quickly carried them to Cyprus. From Cyprus they went to another port called Salinae, ten leagues away. There Ignatius boarded the pilgrims’ ship, relying on nothing but his hope in Providence. Throughout the voyage, the Lord often appeared to him and gave him great comfort. The visions seemed to take the form of something large, round, and golden. The travelers reached Joppa and rode donkeys to Jerusalem, as was customary in that region. As the pilgrims came in sight of the city, a Spanish nobleman named Didacus Minez urged them to be silent and reflect.

All followed his suggestion, and when they saw a monk approaching with a crucifix, dismounted. On beholding the city, Ignatius was deeply affected, and the rest affirmed that they experienced a sort of heavenly joy. He always felt this same devotion whenever he visited the holy places. He decided to remain in Jerusalem, in order to visit the holy places often. For this purpose he had taken with him letters of recommendation to the Father Guardian. On presenting them, he said that he intended to remain there to satisfy his own devotion, but said nothing of his purpose of helping others. The Father Guardian told him he did not see how this could be possible, as his house was not even capable of providing for his own Religious, and he intended to send some away from the Holy Land. Ignatius said he wished him merely to hear his confession, since he had come to make it. The Father Guardian said this could be done, but he should wait for the arrival of the Provincial, who was then at Bethlehem. Relying on this promise, Ignatius began to write letters to spiritual persons at Barcelona. He had written some on the day before he was to depart, when he was summoned in the name of the Father Guardian and the Provincial. Then the Provincial, addressing him kindly, said he had heard of his pious determination to remain in the holy places, and had given it serious thought. Many others had the same desire, some had died, others had been taken prisoners, and to his Order was left the work of ransoming captives, wherefore he should prepare himself to resume his journey with the pilgrims on the following day. To this Ignatius answered that his resolution was very fixed, and he did not think that anything would keep him from executing it. If the precept did not bind him under pain of sin, he would not allow any fear to keep him from carrying out his desire. The Provincial said he had authority from the Holy See to detain those he thought fit, and to even excommunicate those who would not obey when stopped by him, and he thought in this case it was better for him not to remain. When he wished to show the pontifical papers giving him power to excommunicate, Ignatius said there was no need, as he believed his word. If they had the authority, he would obey.

All followed his suggestion. When they saw a monk approaching with a crucifix, they dismounted. At the sight of the city, Ignatius was deeply moved. The others said they felt a kind of heavenly joy. He always felt the same devotion whenever he visited the holy places. He decided to stay in Jerusalem so that he could visit the holy places often. For this purpose, he had brought letters of recommendation to the Father Guardian. When he presented the letters, he said he intended to stay there to satisfy his own devotion. He said nothing about his purpose of helping others. The Father Guardian told him he did not see how this could be possible. His house could not even provide for its own religious community, and he intended to send some members away from the Holy Land. Ignatius said he only wished the Father Guardian to hear his confession, since he had come to confess. The Father Guardian said he could hear it, but Ignatius should wait for the Provincial, who was then at Bethlehem. Relying on this promise, Ignatius began writing letters to spiritual people in Barcelona. He had written some letters on the day before he was to leave. Then he was summoned in the name of the Father Guardian and the Provincial. The Provincial spoke kindly to him. He said he had heard of Ignatius's pious decision to stay in the holy places and had given it serious thought. Many others had wanted to do the same. Some had died, and others had been taken prisoner. The work of ransoming captives had been left to the Provincial's Order. Ignatius should therefore prepare to continue his journey with the pilgrims the next day. Ignatius answered that his decision was firm, and he did not think anything would keep him from carrying it out. If he was not bound to obey the order under pain of sin, he would not let fear prevent him from doing what he wished. The Provincial said he had authority from the Holy See to detain anyone he thought fit. He could even excommunicate those who refused to obey when he stopped them. He thought it would be better for Ignatius not to stay. The Provincial offered to show him the papal documents granting this power to excommunicate. Ignatius said there was no need, since he believed him. If they had the authority, he would obey.

After this, returning to where he was before, he was seized with a great longing to visit Mount Olivet again before he departed, since the Divine Will would not suffer him to remain in those holy places. On that mountain is a rock from which Our Lord ascended to heaven, on which even now His footprints are visible. And this is what he wished to see again. Therefore, without telling any one, and without a guide, although it was a dangerous thing to go without a Turkish guard, secretly withdrawing he went to Mount Olivet alone. As the guards would not allow him to enter, he gave them his knife. After great consolation in prayer he desired to go to Bethphage. When he reached that place, he thought that on Mount Olivet he had not noticed the position of the right foot of Our Lord and that of the left. He came a second time, and gave his scissors to the guards to allow him to enter. Afterward when at the monastery it was discovered he had gone without a guide, a great search was made for him. Coming down from Mount Olivet he met a girdled Christian, those who are bound to wear a girdle to distinguish them from the Mussulmans; this man, pretending to be very angry, threatened him with a large stick, and approaching, firmly grasped him by the arm. He allowed himself to be led, but the good man once he had hold of him did not let him go. In the meantime, as he was thus led along a captive, he was visited with great consolation, as he seemed to see Christ walking above him. And this continued until he reached the monastery.

After this, he returned to where he had been staying. He felt a great longing to visit Mount Olivet again before leaving, since the Divine Will would not let him remain in those holy places. On the mountain is a rock from which Our Lord ascended to heaven. His footprints are still visible on it, and he wanted to see them again. So he slipped away to Mount Olivet alone, without telling anyone or taking a guide. He did this even though it was dangerous to go without a Turkish guard. The guards would not let him enter, so he gave them his knife. After finding great consolation in prayer, he wanted to go to Bethphage. When he reached Bethphage, he realized that he had not noticed the positions of Our Lord’s right and left feet on Mount Olivet. He returned to the mountain and gave the guards his scissors so they would let him enter. Meanwhile, those at the monastery discovered that he had gone without a guide and searched everywhere for him. As he came down from Mount Olivet, he met a Christian wearing a girdle. Christians were required to wear girdles to distinguish them from Muslims. Pretending to be very angry, the man threatened him with a large stick. He came up to him and firmly grasped his arm. He allowed the man to lead him away, but once the good man had hold of him, he would not let him go. As he was led along like a captive, he felt great consolation, for he seemed to see Christ walking above him. This continued until he reached the monastery.