9

I did not feel at ease until the ship was well out of New York harbor; and, notwithstanding the repeated reassurances of my millionaire friend and my own knowledge of the facts in the case, I somehow could not rid myself of the sentiment that I was, in a great degree, responsible for the "widow's" tragic end. We had brought most of the morning papers aboard with us, but my great fear of seeing my name in connection with the killing would not permit me to read the accounts, although, in one of the papers, I did look at the picture of the victim, which did not in the least resemble her. This morbid state of mind, together with sea-sickness, kept me miserable for three or four days. At the end of that time my spirits began to revive, and I took an interest in the ship, my fellow passengers, and the voyage in general. On the second or third day out we passed several spouting whales, but I could not arouse myself to make the effort to go to the other side of the ship to see them. A little later we ran in close proximity to a large iceberg. I was curious enough to get up and look at it, and I was fully repaid for my pains. The sun was shining full upon it, and it glistened like a mammoth diamond, cut with a million facets. As we passed, it constantly changed its shape; at each different angle of vision it assumed new and astonishing forms of beauty. I watched it through a pair of glasses, seeking to verify my early conception of an iceberg—in the geographies of my grammar school days the pictures of icebergs always included a stranded polar bear, standing desolately upon one of the snowy crags. I looked for the bear, but if he was there, he refused to put himself on exhibition.

I did not feel at ease until the ship was well out of New York harbor. My millionaire friend had repeatedly reassured me, and I knew the facts of the case. Still, I somehow could not shake the feeling that I was largely responsible for the "widow's" tragic end. We had brought most of the morning papers aboard. But I was so afraid of seeing my name connected with the killing that I could not read the accounts. I did look at the victim's picture in one paper, though it did not look at all like her. This gloomy state of mind, along with seasickness, made me miserable for three or four days. After that, my spirits began to lift, and I took an interest in the ship, my fellow passengers, and the voyage. On the second or third day out, we passed several whales spouting water. But I could not bring myself to go to the other side of the ship to see them. A little later, we passed close to a large iceberg. I was curious enough to get up and look at it, and the sight was well worth the effort. The sun shone directly on it, and it sparkled like a huge diamond cut with a million facets. As we passed, it seemed to change shape constantly. From each new angle, it took on new and astonishing forms of beauty. I watched it through binoculars, hoping to confirm my childhood idea of an iceberg. In my grade school geography books, pictures of icebergs always included a stranded polar bear. The bear would be standing forlornly on one of the snowy peaks. I looked for the bear, but if he was there, he refused to show himself.

It was not, however, until the morning that we entered the harbor of Havre that I was able to shake off my gloom. Then the strange sights, the chatter in an unfamiliar tongue, and the excitement of landing and passing the customs officials caused me to forget completely the events of a few days before. Indeed, I grew so lighthearted that when I caught my first sight of the train which was to take us to Paris, I enjoyed a hearty laugh. The toy-looking engine, the stuffy little compartment cars, with tiny, old-fashioned wheels, struck me as being extremely funny. But before we reached Paris my respect for our train rose considerably. I found that the "tiny" engine made remarkably fast time, and that the old-fashioned wheels ran very smoothly. I even began to appreciate the "stuffy" cars for their privacy. As I watched the passing scenery from the car window, it seemed too beautiful to be real. The bright-colored houses against the green background impressed me as the work of some idealistic painter. Before we arrived in Paris, there was awakened in my heart a love for France which continued to grow stronger, a love which to-day makes that country for me the one above all others to be desired.

It was not until the morning we entered the harbor of Havre that I was able to shake off my gloom. The unfamiliar sights and chatter in a language I did not know distracted me. So did the excitement of landing and passing through customs. I completely forgot the events of a few days before. I became so lighthearted that I laughed out loud when I first saw the train that would take us to Paris. The engine looked like a toy, and the cramped little compartment cars had tiny, old-fashioned wheels. I found it all extremely funny. But before we reached Paris, I gained much more respect for our train. I found that the "tiny" engine was remarkably fast, and the old-fashioned wheels ran very smoothly. I even began to appreciate the privacy of the "stuffy" cars. As I watched the scenery pass by the train window, it seemed too beautiful to be real. The brightly colored houses against the green background looked like the work of an idealistic painter. Before we arrived in Paris, I had begun to love France. That love continued to grow stronger. Today, France is the country I desire above all others.

We rolled into the station Saint Lazare about four o'clock in the afternoon and drove immediately to the Hôtel Continental. My benefactor, humoring my curiosity and enthusiasm, which seemed to please him very much, suggested that we take a short walk before dinner. We stepped out of the hotel and turned to the right into the rue de Rivoli. When the vista of the Place de la Concorde and the Champs Élysées suddenly burst on me, I could hardly credit my own eyes. I shall attempt no such supererogatory task as a description of Paris. I wish only to give briefly the impressions which that wonderful city made upon me. It impressed me as the perfect and perfectly beautiful city; and even after I had been there for some time, and seen not only its avenues and palaces, but its most squalid alleys and hovels, this impression was not weakened. Paris became for me a charmed spot, and whenever I have returned there, I have fallen under the spell, a spell which compels admiration for all of its manners and customs and justification of even its follies and sins.

We arrived at the Saint Lazare station around four in the afternoon and drove straight to the Hôtel Continental. My benefactor seemed very pleased by my curiosity and enthusiasm. To indulge me, he suggested a short walk before dinner. We left the hotel and turned right onto the rue de Rivoli. When the view of the Place de la Concorde and the Champs Élysées suddenly opened before me, I could hardly believe my eyes. I will not attempt the unnecessary task of describing Paris. I only want to briefly share the impressions that wonderful city made on me. It struck me as the perfect and perfectly beautiful city. Even after some time there, that impression remained. I had seen not only its avenues and palaces but also its most squalid alleys and hovels. Paris became an enchanted place for me. Whenever I have returned, I have fallen under its spell. That spell makes me admire all its manners and customs and justify even its follies and sins.

We walked a short distance up the Champs Élysées and sat for a while in chairs along the sidewalk, watching the passing crowds on foot and in carriages. It was with reluctance that I went back to the hotel for dinner. After dinner we went to one of the summer theatres, and after the performance my friend took me to a large café on one of the Grands Boulevards. Here it was that I had my first glimpse of the French life of popular literature, so different from real French life. There were several hundred people, men and women, in the place drinking, smoking, talking, and listening to the music. My millionaire friend and I took seats at a table, where we sat smoking and watching the crowd. It was not long before we were joined by two or three good-looking, well-dressed young women. My friend talked to them in French and bought drinks for the whole party. I tried to recall my high-school French, but the effort availed me little. I could stammer out a few phrases, but, very naturally, could not understand a word that was said to me. We stayed at the café a couple of hours, then went back to the hotel. The next day we spent several hours in the shops and at the tailor's. I had no clothes except what I had been able to gather together at my benefactor's apartments the night before we sailed. He bought me the same kind of clothes which he himself wore, and that was the best; and he treated me in every way as he dressed me, as an equal, not as a servant. In fact, I don't think anyone could have guessed that such a relation existed. My duties were light and few, and he was a man full of life and vigor, who rather enjoyed doing things for himself. He kept me supplied with money far beyond what ordinary wages would have amounted to. For the first two weeks we were together almost constantly, seeing the sights, sights old to him, but from which he seemed to get new pleasure in showing them to me. During the day we took in the places of interest, and at night the theatres and cafés. This sort of life appealed to me as ideal, and I asked him one day how long he intended to stay in Paris. He answered: "Oh, until I get tired of it." I could not understand how that could ever happen. As it was, including several short trips to the Mediterranean, to Spain, to Brussels, and to Ostend, we did remain there fourteen or fifteen months. We stayed at the Hôtel Continental about two months of this time. Then my millionaire took apartments, hired a piano, and lived almost the same life he lived in New York. He entertained a great deal, some of the parties being a good deal more blasé than the New York ones. I played for the guests at all of them with an effect which to relate would be but a tiresome repetition to the reader. I played not only for the guests, but continued, as I used to do in New York, to play often for the host when he was alone. This man of the world, who grew weary of everything and was always searching for something new, appeared never to grow tired of my music; he seemed to take it as a drug. He fell into a habit which caused me no little annoyance; sometimes he would come in during the early hours of the morning and, finding me in bed asleep, would wake me up and ask me to play something. This, so far as I can remember, was my only hardship during my whole stay with him in Europe.

We walked a short distance up the Champs Élysées and sat for a while in chairs along the sidewalk. We watched the crowds passing on foot and in carriages. I was reluctant to go back to the hotel for dinner. Afterward, we went to one of the summer theaters. After the performance, my friend took me to a large café on one of the Grands Boulevards. There I had my first glimpse of French life as popular literature portrayed it, so different from real French life. Several hundred men and women were there, drinking, smoking, talking, and listening to the music. My millionaire friend and I sat at a table, smoking and watching the crowd. Before long, two or three attractive, well-dressed young women joined us. My friend spoke to them in French and bought drinks for everyone. I tried to remember my high school French, but it did me little good. I could stumble through a few phrases, but naturally I could not understand a word anyone said to me. We stayed at the café for a couple of hours, then returned to the hotel. The next day, we spent several hours shopping and visiting the tailor. My only clothes were what I had gathered at my benefactor's apartments the night before we sailed. He bought me the same kind of clothes he wore himself, and those were the best. He treated me as he dressed me, in every way as an equal, not a servant. In fact, I don't think anyone could have guessed that I was his servant. My duties were few and easy. He was a man full of life and energy who rather enjoyed doing things for himself. He kept me supplied with far more money than ordinary wages would have provided. For the first two weeks, we were together almost constantly, seeing the sights. He had seen them before, but he seemed to find new pleasure in showing them to me. During the day, we visited places of interest. At night, we went to theaters and cafés. This life seemed ideal to me, and one day I asked him how long he planned to stay in Paris. He answered: "Oh, until I get tired of it." I could not understand how that could ever happen. In the end, we stayed there fourteen or fifteen months, including several short trips to the Mediterranean, to Spain, to Brussels, and to Ostend. We spent about two months of that time at the Hôtel Continental. Then my millionaire rented apartments and a piano and lived much as he had in New York. He entertained a great deal, and some of the parties were much more blasé than those in New York. I played for the guests at all of them. To describe the effect would only be a tiresome repetition for the reader. I also continued, as I had in New York, to play often for my host when he was alone. This man of the world grew tired of everything and was always searching for something new. Yet he seemed never to tire of my music. He seemed to use it like a drug. He developed a habit that annoyed me quite a bit. Sometimes he came in during the early hours of the morning and found me asleep in bed. He would wake me and ask me to play something. As far as I can remember, this was my only hardship during my whole stay with him in Europe.

After the first few weeks spent in sight-seeing I had a great deal of time left to myself; my friend was often I did not know where. When not with him, I spent the day nosing about all the curious nooks and corners of Paris; of this I never grew tired. At night I usually went to some theatre, but always ended up at the big café on the Grands Boulevards. I wish the reader to know that it was not alone the gaiety which drew me there; aside from that I had a laudable purpose. I had purchased an English-French conversational dictionary, and I went there every night to take a language lesson. I used to get three or four of the young women who frequented the place at a table and buy beer and cigarettes for them. In return I received my lesson. I got more than my money's worth, for they actually compelled me to speak the language. This, together with reading the papers every day, enabled me within a few months to express myself fairly well, and, before I left Paris, to have more than an ordinary command of French. Of course, every person who goes to Paris could not dare to learn French in this manner, but I can think of no easier or quicker way of doing it. The acquiring of another foreign language awoke me to the fact that with a little effort I could secure an added accomplishment as fine and as valuable as music; so I determined to make myself as much of a linguist as possible. I bought a Spanish newspaper every day in order to freshen my memory of that language, and, for French, devised what was, so far as I knew, an original system of study. I compiled a list which I termed "Three hundred necessary words." These I thoroughly committed to memory, also the conjugation of the verbs which were included in the list. I studied these words over and over, much as children of a couple of generations ago studied the alphabet. I also practiced a set of phrases like the following: "How?" "What did you say?" "What does the word —— mean?" "I understand all you say except ——." "Please repeat." "What do you call ——?" "How do you say ——?" These I called my working sentences. In an astonishingly short time I reached the point where the language taught itself—where I learned to speak merely by speaking. This point is the place which students taught foreign languages in our schools and colleges find great difficulty in reaching. I think the main trouble is that they learn too much of a language at a time. A French child with a vocabulary of two hundred words can express more spoken ideas than a student of French can with a knowledge of two thousand. A small vocabulary, the smaller the better, which embraces the common, everyday-used ideas, thoroughly mastered, is the key to a language. When that much is acquired the vocabulary can be increased simply by talking. And it is easy. Who cannot commit three hundred words to memory? Later I tried my method, if I may so term it, with German, and found that it worked in the same way.

After the first few weeks of sightseeing, I had a great deal of time to myself. My friend was often away, and I did not know where. When I was not with him, I spent the day exploring all the curious nooks and corners of Paris. I never grew tired of it. At night I usually went to a theater, but I always ended up at the big café on the Grands Boulevards. I want the reader to know that the lively atmosphere was not my only reason for going there. I also had a worthy purpose. I had bought an English-French conversational dictionary, and I went to the café every night for a language lesson. I would get three or four of the young women who frequented the café to sit at a table. Then I would buy them beer and cigarettes. In return, they gave me a lesson. I got more than my money's worth, because they actually made me speak the language. This practice, along with reading the newspapers every day, enabled me to express myself fairly well within a few months. Before I left Paris, I had more than an ordinary command of French. Of course, not everyone who goes to Paris could dare to learn French this way. But I can think of no easier or quicker way to do it. Learning another foreign language made me realize something. With a little effort, I could gain another accomplishment as fine and valuable as music. So I decided to become as much of a linguist as possible. I bought a Spanish newspaper every day to refresh my memory of the language. For French, I devised a system of study that was, as far as I knew, original. I made a list that I called "Three hundred necessary words." I memorized the words thoroughly, along with the conjugations of the verbs on the list. I studied the words over and over, much as children a couple of generations ago studied the alphabet. I also practiced a set of phrases like these: "How?" "What did you say?" "What does the word —— mean?" "I understand all you say except ——." "Please repeat." "What do you call ——?" "How do you say ——?" I called these my working sentences. In an astonishingly short time, I reached the point where the language taught itself. I learned to speak simply by speaking. Students taught foreign languages in our schools and colleges find it very difficult to reach this point. I think the main problem is that they learn too much of a language at once. A French child with a vocabulary of two hundred words can express more ideas aloud than a French student who knows two thousand. The key to a language is a small vocabulary, the smaller the better, that covers common, everyday ideas and is thoroughly mastered. Once that much is learned, the vocabulary can be increased simply by talking. And it is easy. Who cannot memorize three hundred words? Later, I tried my method, if I may call it that, with German. I found that it worked the same way.

I spent a good many evenings at the Opéra. The music there made me strangely reminiscent of my life in Connecticut; it was an atmosphere in which I caught a fresh breath of my boyhood days and early youth. Generally, in the morning after I had attended a performance, I would sit at the piano and for a couple of hours play the music which I used to play in my mother's little parlor.

I spent many evenings at the Opéra. The music there brought back strange memories of my life in Connecticut. Its atmosphere gave me a fresh sense of my boyhood and early youth. Usually, the morning after a performance, I would sit at the piano for a couple of hours. I would play the music I used to play in my mother's little parlor.

One night I went to hear Faust. I got into my seat just as the lights went down for the first act. At the end of the act I noticed that my neighbor on the left was a young girl. I cannot describe her either as to feature, or color of her hair, or of her eyes; she was so young, so fair, so ethereal, that I felt to stare at her would be a violation; yet I was distinctly conscious of her beauty. During the intermission she spoke English in a low voice to a gentleman and a lady who sat in the seats to her left, addressing them as father and mother. I held my program as though studying it, but listened to catch every sound of her voice. Her observations on the performance and the audience were so fresh and naïve as to be almost amusing. I gathered that she was just out of school, and that this was her first trip to Paris. I occasionally stole a glance at her, and each time I did so my heart leaped into my throat. Once I glanced beyond to the gentleman who sat next to her. My glance immediately turned into a stare. Yes, there he was, unmistakably, my father! looking hardly a day older than when I had seen him some ten years before. What a strange coincidence! What should I say to him? What would he say to me? Before I had recovered from my first surprise, there came another shock in the realization that the beautiful, tender girl at my side was my sister. Then all the springs of affection in my heart, stopped since my mother's death, burst out in fresh and terrible torrents, and I could have fallen at her feet and worshiped her. They were singing the second act, but I did not hear the music. Slowly the desolate loneliness of my position became clear to me. I knew that I could not speak, but I would have given a part of my life to touch her hand with mine and call her "sister." I sat through the opera until I could stand it no longer. I felt that I was suffocating. Valentine's love seemed like mockery, and I felt an almost uncontrollable impulse to rise up and scream to the audience: "Here, here in your very midst, is a tragedy, a real tragedy!" This impulse grew so strong that I became afraid of myself, and in the darkness of one of the scenes I stumbled out of the theatre. I walked aimlessly about for an hour or so, my feelings divided between a desire to weep and a desire to curse. I finally took a cab and went from café to café, and for one of the very few times in my life drank myself into a stupor.

One night I went to hear Faust. I reached my seat just as the lights went down for the first act. At the end of the act, I noticed that the person sitting to my left was a young girl. I cannot describe her features or the color of her hair or eyes. She was so young, so fair, so ethereal, that I felt staring at her would be a violation. Yet I was keenly aware of her beauty. During the intermission, she spoke English in a low voice to a gentleman and a lady sitting to her left. She called them father and mother. I held my program as if studying it, but I listened to catch every sound of her voice. Her comments on the performance and the audience were so fresh and innocent that they were almost amusing. I gathered that she had just finished school and that this was her first trip to Paris. From time to time, I stole a glance at her, and each time my heart leaped into my throat. Once I glanced past her at the gentleman sitting next to her. My glance immediately turned into a stare. Yes, there he was, unmistakably, my father! He looked hardly a day older than when I had seen him some ten years before. What a strange coincidence! What should I say to him? What would he say to me? Before I had recovered from my first surprise, another realization shocked me. The beautiful, tender girl at my side was my sister. All the springs of affection in my heart had been stopped since my mother's death. Now they burst out in fresh and terrible torrents, and I could have fallen at her feet and worshiped her. They were singing the second act, but I did not hear the music. Slowly, I came to understand how utterly alone I was. I knew that I could not speak, but I would have given part of my life to touch her hand and call her "sister." I sat through the opera until I could stand it no longer. I felt that I was suffocating. Valentine's love seemed like a mockery. I felt an almost uncontrollable urge to stand up and scream to the audience: "Here, here in your very midst, is a tragedy, a real tragedy!" The urge grew so strong that I became afraid of myself. During one of the dark scenes, I stumbled out of the theatre. I walked aimlessly for an hour or so, torn between a desire to weep and a desire to curse. Finally, I took a cab and went from café to café. For one of the very few times in my life, I drank myself into a stupor.

It was unwelcome news for me when my benefactor—I could not think of him as employer—informed me that he was at last tired of Paris. This news gave me, I think, a passing doubt as to his sanity. I had enjoyed life in Paris, and, taking all things into consideration, enjoyed it wholesomely. One thing which greatly contributed to my enjoyment was the fact that I was an American. Americans are immensely popular in Paris; and this is not due solely to the fact that they spend lots of money there, for they spend just as much or more in London, and in the latter city they are merely tolerated because they do spend. The Londoner seems to think that Americans are people whose only claim to be classed as civilized is that they have money, and the regrettable thing about that is that the money is not English. But the French are more logical and freer from prejudices than the British; so the difference of attitude is easily explained. Only once in Paris did I have cause to blush for my American citizenship. I had become quite friendly with a young man from Luxemburg whom I had met at the big café. He was a stolid, slow-witted fellow, but, as we say, with a heart of gold. He and I grew attached to each other and were together frequently. He was a great admirer of the United States and never grew tired of talking to me about the country and asking for information. It was his intention to try his fortune there some day. One night he asked me in a tone of voice which indicated that he expected an authoritative denial of an ugly rumor: "Did they really burn a man alive in the United States?" I never knew what I stammered out to him as an answer. I should have felt relieved if I could even have said to him: "Well, only one."

It was unwelcome news when my benefactor told me he was finally tired of Paris. I could not think of him as my employer. For a moment, I think, I doubted his sanity. I had enjoyed life in Paris and, all things considered, enjoyed it in a wholesome way. One thing that greatly added to my enjoyment was being an American. Americans are immensely popular in Paris. This is not just because they spend lots of money there. They spend just as much or more in London, where they are merely tolerated because they spend money. The Londoner seems to think Americans have only one claim to being civilized: they have money. And the regrettable thing is that the money is not English. But the French are more logical and less prejudiced than the British, so the difference in attitude is easily explained. Only once in Paris did I have reason to blush for my American citizenship. I had become quite friendly with a young man from Luxemburg whom I had met at the big café. He was a steady, slow-witted fellow, but, as we say, he had a heart of gold. We grew attached to each other and often spent time together. He greatly admired the United States and never tired of talking to me about the country and asking questions. He intended to try his luck there someday. One night, he asked me, "Did they really burn a man alive in the United States?" His tone suggested he expected me to put the ugly rumor to rest with an authoritative denial. I never knew what I stammered in reply. I would have felt relieved if I could even have said, "Well, only one."

When we arrived in London, my sadness at leaving Paris was turned into despair. After my long stay in the French capital, huge, ponderous, massive London seemed to me as ugly a thing as man could contrive to make. I thought of Paris as a beauty spot on the face of the earth, and of London as a big freckle. But soon London's massiveness, I might say its very ugliness, began to impress me. I began to experience that sense of grandeur which one feels when he looks at a great mountain or a mighty river. Beside London Paris becomes a toy, a pretty plaything. And I must own that before I left the world's metropolis I discovered much there that was beautiful. The beauty in and about London is entirely different from that in and about Paris; and I could not but admit that the beauty of the French city seemed hand-made, artificial, as though set up for the photographer's camera, everything nicely adjusted so as not to spoil the picture; while that of the English city was rugged, natural, and fresh.

When we arrived in London, my sadness at leaving Paris turned to despair. After my long stay in the French capital, huge, heavy, massive London seemed as ugly as anything people could make. I thought of Paris as a beauty spot on the face of the earth, and London as a big freckle. But soon London’s massiveness, even its ugliness, began to impress me. I began to feel the sense of grandeur one feels when looking at a great mountain or a mighty river. Beside London, Paris becomes a toy, a pretty plaything. And I must admit that before I left the world’s metropolis, I discovered much beauty there. The beauty in and around London is entirely different from that in and around Paris. I had to admit that the beauty of the French city seemed handmade and artificial. It was as if everything had been arranged for a photographer’s camera, with nothing out of place to spoil the picture. The beauty of the English city, on the other hand, was rugged, natural, and fresh.

How these two cities typify the two peoples who built them! Even the sound of their names expresses a certain racial difference. Paris is the concrete expression of the gaiety, regard for symmetry, love of art, and, I might well add, of the morality of the French people. London stands for the conservatism, the solidarity, the utilitarianism, and, I might well add, the hypocrisy of the Anglo-Saxon. It may sound odd to speak of the morality of the French, if not of the hypocrisy of the English; but this seeming paradox impresses me as a deep truth. I saw many things in Paris which were immoral according to English standards, but the absence of hypocrisy, the absence of the spirit to do the thing if it might only be done in secret, robbed these very immoralities of the damning influence of the same evils in London. I have walked along the terrace cafés of Paris and seen hundreds of men and women sipping their wine and beer, without observing a sign of drunkenness. As they drank, they chatted and laughed and watched the passing crowds; the drinking seemed to be a secondary thing. This I have witnessed, not only in the cafés along the Grands Boulevards, but in the out-of-the-way places patronized by the working classes. In London I have seen in the "pubs" men and women crowded in stuffy little compartments, drinking seemingly only for the pleasure of swallowing as much as they could hold. I have seen there women from eighteen to eighty, some in tatters, and some clutching babes in their arms, drinking the heavy English ales and whiskies served to them by women. In the whole scene, not one ray of brightness, not one flash of gaiety, only maudlin joviality or grim despair. And I have thought, if some men and women will drink—and it is certain that some will—is it not better that they do so under the open sky, in the fresh air, than huddled together in some close, smoky room? There is a sort of frankness about the evils of Paris which robs them of much of the seductiveness of things forbidden, and with that frankness goes a certain cleanliness of thought belonging to things not hidden. London will do whatever Paris does, provided exterior morals are not shocked. As a result, Paris has the appearance only of being the more immoral city. The difference may be summed up in this: Paris practices its sins as lightly as it does its religion, while London practices both very seriously.

How well these two cities reflect the two peoples who built them! Even the sound of their names suggests a certain racial difference. Paris embodies the gaiety, love of symmetry, and love of art of the French people. I might well add their morality. London stands for the conservatism, solidarity, and practicality of the Anglo-Saxon. I might well add hypocrisy. It may sound odd to speak of the morality of the French, though perhaps not of the hypocrisy of the English. But this apparent paradox strikes me as a deep truth. I saw many things in Paris that were immoral by English standards. But there was no hypocrisy, no desire to do these things only if they could be done in secret. Without that hypocrisy, these very immoralities lost the harmful influence the same evils had in London. I have walked past the outdoor cafés of Paris and seen hundreds of men and women sipping wine and beer. I saw no sign of drunkenness. As they drank, they chatted, laughed, and watched the passing crowds. Drinking seemed to be secondary. I saw this not only at cafés along the Grands Boulevards, but also in out-of-the-way places frequented by the working classes. In London, I have seen men and women crowded into stuffy little compartments in the "pubs". They seemed to drink only for the pleasure of swallowing as much as they could hold. There I have seen women from eighteen to eighty drinking heavy English ales and whiskies served by women. Some were in rags, and some held babies in their arms. In the whole scene, there was not one ray of brightness, not one flash of gaiety. There was only drunken cheerfulness or grim despair. And I have thought: some men and women will drink, and it is certain that some will. If they do, isn't it better for them to drink under the open sky, in the fresh air? Isn't that better than huddling together in a cramped, smoky room? There is a frankness about the evils of Paris that strips them of much of the appeal of forbidden things. Along with that frankness comes a certain cleanliness of thought that belongs to things kept in the open. London will do whatever Paris does, as long as outward standards of morality are not offended. As a result, Paris only appears to be the more immoral city. The difference may be summed up this way: Paris practices its sins as lightly as it practices its religion. London takes both very seriously.

I should not neglect to mention what impressed me most forcibly during my stay in London. It was not St. Paul's nor the British Museum nor Westminster Abbey. It was nothing more or less than the simple phrase "Thank you," or sometimes more elaborated, "Thank you very kindly, sir." I was continually surprised by the varied uses to which it was put; and, strange to say, its use as an expression of politeness seemed more limited than any other. One night I was in a cheap music hall and accidentally bumped into a waiter who was carrying a tray-load of beer, almost bringing him to several shillings' worth of grief. To my amazement he righted himself and said: "Thank ye, sir," and left me wondering whether he meant that he thanked me for not completely spilling his beer, or that he would thank me for keeping out of his way.

I should mention what impressed me most during my stay in London. It was not St. Paul's, the British Museum, or Westminster Abbey. It was simply the phrase "Thank you," or sometimes the more elaborate "Thank you very kindly, sir." I was continually surprised by the many ways people used it. Strangely, politeness seemed to be its least common use. One night, I was in a cheap music hall and accidentally bumped into a waiter carrying a tray of beer. I nearly caused him several shillings' worth of trouble. To my amazement, he steadied himself and said, "Thank you, sir." I wondered whether he was thanking me for not spilling all his beer. Or was he saying he would thank me to stay out of his way?

I also found cause to wonder upon what ground the English accuse Americans of corrupting the language by introducing slang words. I think I heard more and more different kinds of slang during my few weeks' stay in London than in my whole "tenderloin" life in New York. But I suppose the English feel that the language is theirs, and that they may do with it as they please without at the same time allowing that privilege to others.

I also wondered why the English accuse Americans of corrupting the language by adding slang. I think I heard more slang, and more kinds of it, in a few weeks in London than in my entire "tenderloin" life in New York. But I suppose the English feel that the language belongs to them. They can do as they please with it without giving others the same privilege.

My millionaire was not so long in growing tired of London as of Paris. After a stay of six or eight weeks we went across into Holland. Amsterdam was a great surprise to me. I had always thought of Venice as the city of canals; it had never entered my mind that I should find similar conditions in a Dutch town. I don't suppose the comparison goes far beyond the fact that there are canals in both cities—I have never seen Venice—but Amsterdam struck me as being extremely picturesque. From Holland we went to Germany, where we spent five or six months, most of the time in Berlin. I found Berlin more to my taste than London, and occasionally I had to admit that in some things it was superior to Paris.

My millionaire grew tired of London faster than he had grown tired of Paris. After six or eight weeks, we crossed over to Holland. Amsterdam was a great surprise to me. I had always thought of Venice as the city of canals. It had never occurred to me that I would find canals in a Dutch town. I have never seen Venice, so I don't suppose the comparison goes much beyond the canals in both cities. But Amsterdam struck me as extremely picturesque. From Holland we went to Germany, where we spent five or six months, mostly in Berlin. I liked Berlin more than London. At times, I had to admit that in some ways it was better than Paris.

In Berlin I especially enjoyed the orchestral concerts, and I attended a large number of them. I formed the acquaintance of a good many musicians, several of whom spoke of my playing in high terms. It was in Berlin that my inspiration was renewed.

In Berlin, I especially enjoyed the orchestral concerts and attended many of them. I met many musicians, several of whom praised my playing highly. In Berlin, my inspiration returned.

One night my millionaire entertained a party of men composed of artists, musicians, writers, and, for aught I know, a count or two. They drank and smoked a great deal, talked art and music, and discussed, it seemed to me, everything that ever entered man's mind. I could only follow the general drift of what they were saying. When they discussed music, it was more interesting to me; for then some fellow would run excitedly to the piano and give a demonstration of his opinions, and another would follow quickly, doing the same. In this way, I learned that, regardless of what his specialty might be, every man in the party was a musician. I was at the same time impressed with the falsity of the general idea that Frenchmen are excitable and emotional, and that Germans are calm and phlegmatic. Frenchmen are merely gay and never overwhelmed by their emotions. When they talk loud and fast, it is merely talk, while Germans get worked up and red in the face when sustaining an opinion, and in heated discussions are likely to allow their emotions to sweep them off their feet.

One night, my millionaire hosted a party for a group of men. They included artists, musicians, writers, and, for all I know, a count or two. They drank and smoked a great deal. They talked about art and music and discussed, it seemed to me, everything that had ever entered a man’s mind. I could follow only the general drift of their conversation. When they discussed music, I found it more interesting. Someone would rush excitedly to the piano and demonstrate his opinion. Then another would quickly follow and do the same. In this way, I learned that every man at the party was a musician, whatever his specialty might be. At the same time, I was struck by how false the common idea about Frenchmen and Germans was. People generally think Frenchmen are excitable and emotional, while Germans are calm and unemotional. Frenchmen are simply cheerful and are never overwhelmed by their emotions. When they talk loudly and quickly, it is just talk. Germans, on the other hand, get worked up and red in the face when defending an opinion. In heated discussions, they are likely to let their emotions carry them away.

My millionaire planned, in the midst of the discussion on music, to have me play the "new American music" and astonish everybody present. The result was that I was more astonished than anyone else. I went to the piano and played the most intricate ragtime piece I knew. Before there was time for anybody to express an opinion on what I had done, a big bespectacled, bushy-headed man rushed over, and, shoving me out of the chair, exclaimed: "Get up! Get up!" He seated himself at the piano, and, taking the theme of my ragtime, played it through first in straight chords; then varied and developed it through every known musical form. I sat amazed. I had been turning classic music into ragtime, a comparatively easy task; and this man had taken ragtime and made it classic. The thought came across me like a flash—It can be done, why can't I do it? From that moment my mind was made up. I clearly saw the way of carrying out the ambition I had formed when a boy.

During the discussion about music, my millionaire planned to have me play the "new American music" and astonish everyone present. Instead, I was more astonished than anyone else. I went to the piano and played the most complicated ragtime piece I knew. Before anyone could comment on my playing, a large man with glasses and bushy hair rushed over. He shoved me out of the chair and exclaimed: "Get up! Get up!" He sat down at the piano and played the theme of my ragtime piece, first in straight chords. Then he varied and developed it through every known musical form. I sat amazed. I had been turning classical music into ragtime, a comparatively easy task. But this man had taken ragtime and made it classical. A thought flashed through my mind: It can be done, so why can't I do it? From that moment, my mind was made up. I could clearly see how to carry out the ambition I had formed as a boy.

I now lost interest in our trip. I thought: "Here I am a man, no longer a boy, and what am I doing but wasting my time and abusing my talent? What use am I making of my gifts? What future have I before me following my present course?" These thoughts made me feel remorseful and put me in a fever to get to work, to begin to do something. Of course I know now that I was not wasting time; that there was nothing I could have done at that age which would have benefited me more than going to Europe as I did. The desire to begin work grew stronger each day. I could think of nothing else. I made up my mind to go back into the very heart of the South, to live among the people, and drink in my inspiration firsthand. I gloated over the immense amount of material I had to work with, not only modern ragtime, but also the old slave songs—material which no one had yet touched.

I lost interest in our trip. I thought: "Here I am, a man, no longer a boy. Yet all I’m doing is wasting my time and misusing my talent. How am I using my gifts? What future do I have if I keep going this way?" These thoughts filled me with regret and made me eager to get to work, to begin doing something. Of course, I know now that I was not wasting time. Nothing I could have done at that age would have benefited me more than going to Europe as I did. My desire to begin working grew stronger each day. I could think of nothing else. I decided to go back to the very heart of the South, live among the people, and draw my inspiration firsthand. I delighted in the immense amount of material I had to work with. There was not only modern ragtime but also the old slave songs. No one had yet touched this material.

The more decided and anxious I became to return to the United States, the more I dreaded the ordeal of breaking with my millionaire. Between this peculiar man and me there had grown a very strong bond of affection, backed up by a debt which each owed to the other. He had taken me from a terrible life in New York and, by giving me the opportunity of traveling and of coming in contact with the people with whom he associated, had made me a polished man of the world. On the other hand, I was his chief means of disposing of the thing which seemed to sum up all in life that he dreaded—time. As I remember him now, I can see that time was what he was always endeavoring to escape, to bridge over, to blot out; and it is not strange that some years later he did escape it forever, by leaping into eternity.

The more determined and eager I became to return to the United States, the more I dreaded breaking with my millionaire. This unusual man and I had grown very fond of each other, and each of us owed the other a great deal. He had taken me away from a terrible life in New York. He had given me the chance to travel and meet the people he associated with. In this way, he had made me a polished man of the world. For my part, I was his main way of getting rid of the one thing that seemed to sum up everything he dreaded in life: time. Looking back, I can see that he was always trying to escape time, to get through it, to blot it out. And so it is not surprising that, some years later, he escaped it forever by leaping into eternity.

For some weeks I waited for just the right moment in which to tell my patron of my decision. Those weeks were a trying time to me. I felt that I was playing the part of a traitor to my best friend. At length, one day he said to me: "Well, get ready for a long trip; we are going to Egypt, and then to Japan." The temptation was for an instant almost overwhelming, but I summoned determination enough to say: "I don't think I want to go." "What!" he exclaimed, "you want to go back to your dear Paris? You still think that the only spot on earth? Wait until you see Cairo and Tokyo, you may change your mind." "No," I stammered, "it is not because I want to go back to Paris. I want to go back to the United States." He wished to know my reason, and I told him, as best I could, my dreams, my ambition, and my decision. While I was talking, he watched me with a curious, almost cynical, smile growing on his lips. When I had finished he put his hand on my shoulder—this was the first physical expression of tender regard he had ever shown me—and looking at me in a big-brotherly way, said: "My boy, you are by blood, by appearance, by education, and by tastes a white man. Now, why do you want to throw your life away amidst the poverty and ignorance, in the hopeless struggle, of the black people of the United States? Then look at the terrible handicap you are placing on yourself by going home and working as a Negro composer; you can never be able to get the hearing for your work which it might deserve. I doubt that even a white musician of recognized ability could succeed there by working on the theory that American music should be based on Negro themes. Music is a universal art; anybody's music belongs to everybody; you can't limit it to race or country. Now, if you want to become a composer, why not stay right here in Europe? I will put you under the best teachers on the Continent. Then if you want to write music on Negro themes, why, go ahead and do it."

For several weeks, I waited for the right moment to tell my patron about my decision. Those weeks were difficult for me. I felt like I was betraying my best friend. Finally, one day he said to me, "Well, get ready for a long trip. We are going to Egypt, and then to Japan." For a moment, the temptation was almost overwhelming. But I found enough determination to say, "I don't think I want to go." "What!" he exclaimed. "You want to go back to your dear Paris? Do you still think it's the only place on earth? Wait until you see Cairo and Tokyo. You may change your mind." "No," I stammered, "it isn't because I want to go back to Paris. I want to go back to the United States." He wanted to know why, and I told him about my dreams, my ambition, and my decision as best I could. As I spoke, he watched me with a curious, almost cynical smile growing on his lips. When I finished, he put his hand on my shoulder. It was the first time he had ever shown me physical affection. He looked at me like a big brother and said, "My boy, you are a white man by blood, appearance, education, and taste. Why do you want to throw your life away among the poverty and ignorance of black people in the United States? Why join their hopeless struggle? And think of the terrible disadvantage you'll face by going home and working as a Negro composer. You can never get the hearing your work might deserve. I doubt that even a white musician of recognized ability could succeed there with such an approach. That is, by working on the theory that American music should be based on Negro themes. Music is a universal art. Anybody's music belongs to everybody. You can't limit it to a race or country. Now, if you want to become a composer, why not stay right here in Europe? I'll arrange for you to study with the best teachers on the Continent. Then, if you want to write music on Negro themes, go ahead and do it."

We talked for some time on music and the race question. On the latter subject I had never before heard him express any opinion. Between him and me no suggestion of racial differences had ever come up. I found that he was a man entirely free from prejudice, but he recognized that prejudice was a big stubborn entity which had to be taken into account. He went on to say: "This idea you have of making a Negro out of yourself is nothing more than a sentiment; and you do not realize the fearful import of what you intend to do. What kind of a Negro would you make now, especially in the South? If you had remained there, or perhaps even in your club in New York, you might have succeeded very well; but now you would be miserable. I can imagine no more dissatisfied human being than an educated, cultured, and refined colored man in the United States. I have given more study to the race question in the United States than you may suppose, and I sympathize with the Negroes there; but what's the use? I can't right their wrongs, and neither can you; they must do that themselves. They are unfortunate in having wrongs to right, and you would be foolish to take their wrongs unnecessarily on your shoulders. Perhaps some day, through study and observation, you will come to see that evil is a force, and, like the physical and chemical forces, we cannot annihilate it; we may only change its form. We light upon one evil and hit it with all the might of our civilization, but only succeed in scattering it into a dozen other forms. We hit slavery through a great civil war. Did we destroy it? No, we only changed it into hatred between sections of the country: in the South, into political corruption and chicanery, the degradation of the blacks through peonage, unjust laws, unfair and cruel treatment; and the degradation of the whites by their resorting to these practices, the paralyzation of the public conscience, and the ever over-hanging dread of what the future may bring. Modern civilization hit ignorance of the masses through the means of popular education. What has it done but turn ignorance into anarchy, socialism, strikes, hatred between poor and rich, and universal discontent? In like manner, modern philanthropy hit at suffering and disease through asylums and hospitals; it prolongs the sufferers' lives, it is true, but is, at the same time, sending down strains of insanity and weakness into future generations. My philosophy of life is this: make yourself as happy as possible, and try to make those happy whose lives come in touch with yours; but to attempt to right the wrongs and ease the sufferings of the world in general is a waste of effort. You had just as well try to bail the Atlantic by pouring the water into the Pacific."

We talked for some time about music and the race question. I had never heard him express an opinion on the race question before. No suggestion of racial differences had ever come up between us. I found that he was entirely free from prejudice. But he recognized that prejudice was a large, stubborn force that had to be taken into account. He went on to say: "Your idea of making a Negro out of yourself is nothing more than a sentiment. You do not realize the terrible consequences of what you intend to do. What kind of a Negro would you make now, especially in the South? If you had stayed there, or perhaps even in your club in New York, you might have succeeded very well. But now you would be miserable. I can imagine no more dissatisfied person than an educated, cultured, and refined colored man in the United States. I have studied the race question in the United States more than you may suppose. I sympathize with the Negroes there, but what's the use? I can't right their wrongs, and neither can you. They must do that themselves. They are unfortunate to have wrongs to right. You would be foolish to take their wrongs onto your own shoulders when you don't have to. "Perhaps someday, through study and observation, you will come to see that evil is a force. Like physical and chemical forces, we cannot destroy it. We can only change its form. We find an evil and strike it with all the strength of our civilization. But we only succeed in scattering it into a dozen other forms. We struck slavery through a great civil war. Did we destroy it? No, we only changed it into hatred between sections of the country. In the South, it became political corruption and trickery. It became the degradation of the blacks through peonage, unjust laws, and unfair and cruel treatment. It also became the degradation of the whites through their use of these practices. It became the paralysis of the public conscience and the constant dread of what the future may bring. "Modern civilization struck at the ignorance of the masses through public education. What has it done but turn ignorance into anarchy, socialism, strikes, hatred between poor and rich, and universal discontent? In the same way, modern philanthropy struck at suffering and disease through asylums and hospitals. It prolongs the sufferers' lives, it is true. But at the same time, it passes strains of insanity and weakness down to future generations. "My philosophy of life is this: make yourself as happy as possible. Try to make those whose lives touch yours happy too. But trying to right the world's wrongs and ease its suffering in general is a waste of effort. You might as well try to empty the Atlantic by pouring its water into the Pacific."

This tremendous flow of serious talk from a man I was accustomed to see either gay or taciturn so surprised and overwhelmed me that I could not frame a reply. He left me thinking over what he had said. Whatever was the soundness of his logic or the moral tone of his philosophy, his argument greatly impressed me. I could see, in spite of the absolute selfishness upon which it was based, that there was reason and common sense in it. I began to analyze my own motives, and found that they, too, were very largely mixed with selfishness. Was it more a desire to help those I considered my people, or more a desire to distinguish myself, which was leading me back to the United States? That is a question I have never definitely answered.

I was used to seeing him either cheerful or quiet, so his long outpouring of serious talk surprised and overwhelmed me. I could not find a reply. After he left, I thought over what he had said. Whatever the soundness of his logic or the morality of his philosophy, his argument made a strong impression on me. Even though it was based on complete selfishness, I could see reason and common sense in it. I began to examine my own motives and found that they, too, were largely mixed with selfishness. What was leading me back to the United States? Was it more a desire to help those I considered my people, or a desire to distinguish myself? I have never answered that question for certain.

For several weeks longer I was in a troubled state of mind. Added to the fact that I was loath to leave my good friend was the weight of the question he had aroused in my mind, whether I was not making a fatal mistake. I suffered more than one sleepless night during that time. Finally, I settled the question on purely selfish grounds, in accordance with my millionaire's philosophy. I argued that music offered me a better future than anything else I had any knowledge of, and, in opposition to my friend's opinion, that I should have greater chances of attracting attention as a colored composer than as a white one. But I must own that I also felt stirred by an unselfish desire to voice all the joys and sorrows, the hopes and ambitions, of the American Negro, in classic musical form.

For several more weeks, I was troubled. I hated to leave my good friend. On top of that, he had made me wonder whether I was making a fatal mistake. I spent more than one sleepless night thinking about it. Finally, I decided on purely selfish grounds, following my millionaire’s philosophy. I reasoned that music offered me a better future than anything else I knew about. Unlike my friend, I thought I would have a better chance of attracting attention as a colored composer than as a white one. But I must admit that an unselfish desire also stirred me. I wanted to express all the joys and sorrows, hopes and ambitions of the American Negro in classical music.

When my mind was fully made up, I told my friend. He asked me when I intended to start. I replied that I would do so at once. He then asked me how much money I had. I told him that I had saved several hundred dollars out of sums he had given me. He gave me a check for five hundred dollars, told me to write to him in care of his Paris bankers if I ever needed his help, wished me good luck, and bade me good-by. All this he did almost coldly; and I often wondered whether he was in a hurry to get rid of what he considered a fool, or whether he was striving to hide deeper feelings.

Once I had made up my mind, I told my friend. He asked when I planned to leave. I said I would leave right away. Then he asked how much money I had. I told him I had saved several hundred dollars from the money he had given me. He gave me a check for five hundred dollars. He told me to write to him in care of his Paris bankers if I ever needed his help. He wished me good luck and said goodbye. He did all this almost coldly. I often wondered if he was eager to get rid of someone he thought was a fool. Or was he trying to hide deeper feelings?

And so I separated from the man who was, all in all, the best friend I ever had, except my mother, the man who exerted the greatest influence ever brought into my life, except that exerted by my mother. My affection for him was so strong, my recollections of him are so distinct, he was such a peculiar and striking character, that I could easily fill several chapters with reminiscences of him; but for fear of tiring the reader I shall go on with my narration.

And so I parted from the man who was, on the whole, the best friend I ever had, except for my mother. No one had ever influenced my life more than he did, except my mother. My affection for him was so strong, and my memories of him are so clear. He was such an unusual and striking character that I could easily fill several chapters with memories of him. But I will continue my story for fear of tiring the reader.

I decided to go to Liverpool and take ship for Boston. I still had an uneasy feeling about returning to New York; and in a few days I found myself aboard ship headed for home.

I decided to go to Liverpool and take a ship to Boston. I still felt uneasy about returning to New York. A few days later, I was aboard a ship headed home.