The Expedition Huts at McMurdo Sound

6 min

By SIR E. H. SHACKLETON

By Sir E. H. Shackleton

The following notes are designed for the benefit of future explorers who may make McMurdo Sound a base for inland operations, and to clear any inaccuracies or ambiguities concerning the history, occupation, and state of these huts.

These notes are intended to help future explorers who may use McMurdo Sound as a base for inland operations. They also aim to clear up any inaccuracies or ambiguities about the huts' history, occupation, and condition.

(1) THE NATIONAL ANTARCTIC EXPEDITION’S HUT AT HUT POINT—THE HEAD OF McMURDO SOUND

(1) THE NATIONAL ANTARCTIC EXPEDITION’S HUT AT HUT POINT, AT THE HEAD OF McMURDO SOUND

This hut was constructed by Captain Scott in 1902, by the Expedition sent out by the Royal Geographical Society, the Royal Society, the Government, and by private subscription. Captain Robert F. Scott was appointed to the command of the Expedition. I served as Third Lieutenant until February 1903, when I was invalided home through a broken blood vessel in the lungs, the direct result of scurvy contracted on the Southern journey. The Discovery hut was a large strong building, but was so draughty and cold in comparison with the ship, which was moored one hundred yards away, that it was, during the first year, never used for living quarters. Its sole use was as a storehouse, and a large supply of rough stores, such as flour, cocoa, coffee, biscuit, and tinned meat, was left there in the event of its being used as a place of retreat should any disaster overtake the ship. During the second year occasional parties camped inside the hut, but no bunks or permanent sleeping quarters were ever erected. The discomfort of the hut was a byword on the Expedition, but it formed an excellent depot and starting-point for all parties proceeding to the south.

Captain Scott built this hut in 1902 during an expedition sent out by the Royal Geographical Society, the Royal Society, the Government, and private subscribers. Captain Robert F. Scott was appointed to command the Expedition. I served as Third Lieutenant until February 1903, when I was sent home on medical grounds. A blood vessel had ruptured in my lungs as a direct result of scurvy contracted on the Southern journey. The Discovery hut was a large, sturdy building, but it was draughty and cold compared with the ship, which was moored one hundred yards away. For that reason, the hut was never used as living quarters during the first year. It served only as a storehouse. A large supply of basic provisions was left there, including flour, cocoa, coffee, biscuits, and tinned meat. The supplies were there in case the hut was needed as a place of retreat if disaster struck the ship. During the second year, parties occasionally camped inside the hut, but no bunks or permanent sleeping quarters were ever built. The hut’s discomfort was notorious throughout the Expedition, but it made an excellent depot and starting point for all parties heading south.

When the Discovery finally left McMurdo Sound, the hut was stripped of all gear, including the stove, but there was left behind a large depot of the stores mentioned above. I was not aware of this until I returned to McMurdo Sound in February 1908, when I sent Adams, Joyce, and Wild across to the hut whilst the Nimrod was lying off the ice.

When the Discovery finally left McMurdo Sound, all the gear, including the stove, was removed from the hut. But a large depot of the stores mentioned above was left behind. I did not know about the depot until I returned to McMurdo Sound in February 1908. While the Nimrod lay off the ice, I sent Adams, Joyce, and Wild across to the hut.

On the return of the party they reported that the door had been burst open, evidently by a southerly blizzard, and was jammed by snow outside and in, so they made an entrance through one of the lee windows. They found the hut practically clear of snow, and the structure quite intact. I used the hut in the spring, i.e. September and October 1908, as a storehouse for the large amount of equipment, food, and oil that we were to take on the Southern journey. We built a sort of living-room out of the cases of provisions, and swept out the debris. The Southern Party elected to sleep there before the start, but the supporting party slept outside in the tents, as they considered it warmer.

When the party returned, they reported that the door had been blown open, apparently by a blizzard from the south. Snow had jammed the door from both inside and outside, so they entered through a window on the sheltered side. They found the hut almost clear of snow and the structure completely intact. I used the hut as a storehouse in the spring, that is, September and October 1908. It held the large amount of equipment, food, and oil we were to take on the Southern journey. We built a sort of living room from the cases of provisions and swept out the debris. The Southern Party chose to sleep there before the start. But the supporting party slept outside in tents because they thought it was warmer there.

We still continued to use the lee window as means of ingress and egress to avoid continual shovelling away of the snow, which would be necessary as every southerly blizzard blocked up the main entrance. The various depot parties made use of the hut for replenishing their stores, which had been sledged from my own hut to Hut Point. On the night of March 3, 1909, I arrived with the Southern Party, with a sick man, having been absent on the march 128 days. Our position was bad, as the ship was north of us. We tried to burn the Magnetic Hut in the hope of attracting attention from the ship, but were not able to get it to light. We finally managed to light a flare of carbide, and the ship came down to us in a blizzard, and all were safely aboard at 1 a.m. on March 4, 1909. Before leaving the hut we jammed the window up with baulks of timber, to the best of our ability, in the storm and darkness. The hut was used again by the Ross Sea Section of this last Expedition. The snow was cleared out and extra stores were placed in it. From reports I have received the Discovery Hut was in as good condition in 1917 as it was in 1902.

We continued to use the window on the sheltered side to enter and leave the hut. Otherwise, we would have had to keep shovelling snow away, because every southerly blizzard blocked the main entrance. The various depot parties used the hut to replenish their supplies. These had been brought by sledge from my own hut to Hut Point. On the night of March 3, 1909, I arrived with the Southern Party and a sick man. We had been away on the march for 128 days. Our situation was bad because the ship was north of us. We tried to burn the Magnetic Hut, hoping to attract the ship’s attention, but could not set it alight. We finally managed to light a carbide flare, and the ship came down to us in a blizzard. We were all safely aboard at 1 a.m. on March 4, 1909. Before leaving the hut, we did our best to secure the window with heavy timbers in the storm and darkness. The Ross Sea Section of this last Expedition used the hut again. The snow was cleared out, and extra supplies were placed inside. From the reports I have received, the Discovery Hut was in as good condition in 1917 as it was in 1902.

The stores placed there in 1902 are intact. There are a few cases of extra provisions and oil in the hut, but no sleeping gear, or accommodation, nor stoves, and it must not be looked upon as anything else than a shelter and a most useful pied-à-terre for the start of any Southern journey. No stores nor any equipment have been taken from it during either of my two Expeditions.

The supplies placed there in 1902 are intact. The hut contains a few cases of extra provisions and oil. But it has no sleeping gear, accommodation, or stoves. It should be seen only as a shelter and a very useful base for starting any journey south. Neither of my two expeditions took any supplies or equipment from the hut.

(2) CAPE ROYDS HUT

For several reasons, when I went into McMurdo Sound in 1908 in command of my own Expedition, known as the British Antarctic Expedition, after having failed to land on King Edward VII Land, I decided to build our hut at Cape Royds—a small promontory twenty-three miles north of Hut Point. Here the whole shore party lived in comfort through the winter of 1908. When spring came stores were sledged to Hut Point, so that should the sea-ice break up early between these two places we might not be left in an awkward position. After the return of the Southern Party we went direct north to civilization, so I never visited my hut again. I had left, however, full instructions with Professor David as to the care of the hut, and before the whole Expedition left, the hut was put in order. A letter was pinned in a conspicuous place inside, stating that there were sufficient provisions and equipment to last fifteen men for one year, indicating also the details of these provisions and the position of the coal store. The stove was in good condition, and the letter ended with an invitation for any succeeding party to make what use they required of stores and hut. The hut was then locked and the key nailed on the door in a conspicuous place. From the report of Captain Scott’s last Expedition the hut was in good condition, and from a still later report from the Ross Sea side of this present Expedition, the hut was still intact.

In 1908, I entered McMurdo Sound in command of my own expedition, the British Antarctic Expedition. We had failed to land on King Edward VII Land. For several reasons, I decided to build our hut at Cape Royds, a small headland twenty-three miles north of Hut Point. The whole shore party lived there comfortably through the winter of 1908. When spring came, we took supplies by sledge to Hut Point. That way, we would not be left in a difficult position if the sea ice between the two places broke up early. After the Southern Party returned, we went straight north to civilization, so I never visited my hut again. I had, however, left Professor David full instructions for looking after it. Before the whole Expedition left, the hut was put in order. A letter was pinned in a prominent place inside. It stated that there were enough provisions and equipment to support fifteen men for one year. It also gave details of the provisions and the location of the coal store. The stove was in good condition. The letter ended by inviting any later party to make whatever use they needed of the supplies and the hut. The hut was then locked, and the key was nailed to the door in a prominent place. According to the report of Captain Scott’s last Expedition, the hut was in good condition. A still later report from the Ross Sea side of this present Expedition said the hut was still intact.

(3) CAPE EVANS HUT

This large and commodious hut was constructed by Captain Scott at Cape Evans on his last Expedition. The party lived in it in comfort, and it was left well supplied with stores in the way of food and oil, and a certain amount of coal. Several of the scientific staff of this present Expedition were ashore in it, when the Aurora, which was to have been the permanent winter quarters, broke adrift in May 1915, and went north with the ice. The hut became the permanent living quarters for the ten marooned men, and thanks to the stores they were able to sustain life in comparative comfort, supplementing these stores from my hut at Cape Royds. In January 1917, after I had rescued the survivors, I had the hut put in order and locked up.

Captain Scott built this large, spacious hut at Cape Evans on his last expedition. His party lived there comfortably and left it well stocked with food, oil, and some coal. Several scientific staff members of the present expedition were ashore in the hut in May 1915. The Aurora, which was meant to be their permanent winter quarters, broke free and drifted north with the ice. The hut became the permanent living quarters for the ten stranded men. Thanks to the supplies, they were able to stay alive in relative comfort. They also brought supplies from my hut at Cape Royds. In January 1917, after I rescued the survivors, I had the hut put in order and locked up.

To sum up, there are three available huts in McMurdo Sound.

In summary, three huts are available in McMurdo Sound.

(a) The Discovery Hut with a certain amount of rough stores, and only of use as a point of departure for the South.

(a) The Discovery Hut had some basic supplies and was useful only as a starting point for the journey south.

(b) Cape Royds Hut with a large amount of general stores, but no clothing or equipment now.

(b) Cape Royds Hut has plenty of general supplies, but no clothing or equipment now.

(4) DEPOTS SOUTH OF HUT POINT

In spite of the fact that several depots have been laid to the south of Hut Point on the Barrier, the last being at the Gap (the entrance to the Beardmore Glacier), no future Expedition should depend on them as the heavy snowfall obliterates them completely. There is no record of the depots of any Expedition being made use of by any subsequent Expedition. No party in any of my Expeditions has used any depot laid down by a previous Expedition.

Several depots have been laid on the Barrier south of Hut Point. The last is at the Gap, the entrance to the Beardmore Glacier. But no future expedition should depend on these depots, because heavy snowfall completely buries them. There is no record of any expedition using depots laid by an earlier expedition. No party in any of my expeditions has used a depot laid by a previous expedition.

The end