Letter 11
Women's Dress
Brookline, 9th Mo., 1837.
Brookline, September 1837.
My Dear Sister,—When I view woman as an immortal being, travelling through this world to that city whose builder and maker is God,—when I contemplate her in all the sublimity of her spiritual existence, bearing the image and superscription of Jehovah, emanating from Him and partaking of his nature, and destined, if she fulfils her duty, to dwell with him through the endless ages of eternity,—I mourn that she has lived so far below her privileges and her obligations, as a rational and accountable creature; and I ardently long to behold her occupying that sphere in which I believe her Creator designed her to move.
My dear sister, when I consider woman as an immortal being, I see her traveling through this world toward the city built and made by God. I contemplate the full grandeur of her spiritual existence. She bears the image and mark of Jehovah, comes from him, and shares in his nature. If she fulfills her duty, she is destined to live with him through the endless ages of eternity. When I consider all this, I mourn that she has lived so far below her privileges and obligations as a rational, accountable creature. And I deeply long to see her occupy the sphere in which I believe her Creator intended her to live.
Woman, in all ages and countries, has been the scoff and the jest of her lordly master. If she attempted, like him, to improve her mind, she was ridiculed as pedantic, and driven from the temple of science and literature by coarse attacks and vulgar sarcasms. If she yielded to the pressure of circumstances, and sought relief from the monotony of existence by resorting to the theatre and the ball-room, by ornamenting her person with flowers and with jewels, while her mind was empty and her heart desolate; she was still the mark at which wit and satire and cruelty levelled their arrows.
In every age and country, women have been mocked and ridiculed by their lordly masters. If a woman tried to educate herself as a man did, she was mocked as a pedant. Crude attacks and vulgar sarcasm drove her away from science and literature. If she gave in to the pressure of her circumstances, she might seek relief from her monotonous life. She might go to the theater and ballroom and adorn herself with flowers and jewels. Yet her mind remained empty and her heart desolate. Even then, wit, satire, and cruelty aimed their arrows at her.
‘Woman,’ says Adam Clarke, ‘has been invidiously defined, an animal of dress. How long will they permit themselves to be thus degraded?’ I have been an attentive observer of my sex, and I am constrained to believe that the passion for dress, which so generally characterizes them, is one cause why there so is little of that solid improvement and weight of character which might be acquired under almost any circumstances, if the mind were not occupied by the love of admiration, and the desire to gratify personal vanity. I have already adduced some instances to prove the inordinate love of dress, which is exhibited by women in a state of heathenism; I shall, therefore, confine myself now to what are called Christian countries; only remarking that previous to the introduction of Christianity into the Roman empire, the extravagance of apparel had arisen to an unprecedented height. ‘Jewels, expensive embroidery, and delicious perfumes, were used in great profusion by those who could afford them.’ The holy religion of Jesus Christ came in at this period, and stript luxury and wealth of all their false attractions. ‘Women of the noblest and wealthiest families, surrounded by the seductive allurements of worldly pleasure, renounced them all. Undismayed by severe edicts against the new religion, they appeared before the magistrates, and by pronouncing the simple words, “I am a Christian,” calmly resigned themselves to imprisonment, ignominy and death.’ Could such women have had their minds occupied by the foolish vanity of ornamental apparel? No! Christianity struck at the root of all sin, and consequently we find the early Christians could not fight, or swear, or wear costly clothing. Cave, in his work entitled ‘Primitive Christianity,’ has some interesting remarks on this subject, showing that simplicity of dress was not then esteemed an unimportant part of Christianity.
‘Woman,’ says Adam Clarke, ‘has been spitefully defined as an animal of dress. How long will women allow themselves to be degraded in this way?’ I have observed women closely, and I am forced to believe that their widespread passion for dress has consequences. It is one reason why women have so little of the solid learning and strength of character they could acquire under almost any circumstances. They could acquire these qualities if their minds were not occupied by the love of admiration and the desire to satisfy personal vanity. I have already given examples of the excessive love of dress shown by women in a state of heathenism. I will therefore limit myself now to what are called Christian countries. I will only note that before Christianity was introduced into the Roman empire, extravagant clothing had reached an unprecedented height. ‘Those who could afford them used jewels, expensive embroidery, and delightful perfumes in great abundance.’ The holy religion of Jesus Christ arrived at this time and stripped luxury and wealth of all their false attractions. ‘Women from the noblest and wealthiest families were surrounded by the seductive temptations of worldly pleasure, but they gave them all up. Undaunted by harsh edicts against the new religion, they appeared before magistrates. By saying the simple words, “I am a Christian,” they calmly accepted imprisonment, disgrace, and death.’ Could such women have been occupied with the foolish vanity of decorative clothing? No! Christianity struck at the root of all sin. As a result, we find that early Christians could not fight, swear, or wear costly clothing. In his work ‘Primitive Christianity,’ Cave makes some interesting remarks on this subject. He shows that simplicity of dress was not then regarded as an unimportant part of Christianity.
Very soon, however, when the fire of persecution was no longer blazing, pagan customs became interwoven with Christianity. The professors of the religion of a self-denying Lord, whose kingdom was not of this world, began to use the sword, to return railing for railing, to take oaths, to mingle heathen forms and ceremonies with Christian worship, to engraft on the beautiful simplicity of piety, the feasts and observances which were usual at heathen festivals in honor of the gods, and to adorn their persons with rich and ornamental apparel. And now if we look at Christendom, there is scarcely a vestige of that religion, which the Redeemer of men came to promulgate. The Christian world is much in the situation of the Jewish nation, when the babe of Bethlehem was born, full of outside observances, which they substitute for mercy and love, for self-denial and good works, rigid in the performance of religious duties, but ready, if the Lord Jesus came amongst them and judged them by their fruits, as he did the Pharisees formerly, to crucify him as a slanderer. Indeed, I believe the remark of a late author is perfectly correct:
Very soon, however, the fires of persecution died down, and pagan customs became woven into Christianity. Christians followed a self-denying Lord whose kingdom was not of this world. Yet they began to use the sword, return insult for insult, and take oaths. They mixed pagan forms and ceremonies with Christian worship. They added the feasts and observances of pagan festivals honoring the gods to the beautiful simplicity of religious devotion. They also began to dress in rich and ornamental clothing. Now, if we look at Christendom, we can hardly find a trace of the religion that the Redeemer of humankind came to teach. The Christian world is much like the Jewish nation when the babe of Bethlehem was born. Christians are full of outward observances, which they substitute for mercy and love, self-denial and good works. They are strict in performing religious duties. Yet if the Lord Jesus came among them and judged them by their fruits, as he once judged the Pharisees, they would be ready to crucify him as a slanderer. Indeed, I believe a recent author was perfectly right in saying:
‘Strange as it may seem, yet I do not hesitate to declare my belief that it is easier to make Pagan nations Christians, than to reform Christian communities and fashion them anew, after the pure and simple standard of the gospel. Cast your eye over Christian countries, and see what a multitude of causes combine to resist and impair the influence of Christian institutions. Behold the conformity of Christians to the world, in its prodigal pleasures and frivolous amusements, in its corrupt opinions and sentiments, of false honor. Behold the wide spread ignorance and degrading superstition; the power of prejudice and the authority of custom; the unchristian character of our systems of education; and the dread of the frowns and ridicule of the world, and we discover at once a host of more formidable enemies to the progress of true religion in Christian, than in heathen lands.’
‘Strange as it may seem, I believe it is easier to make Pagan nations Christian than to reform Christian communities. It is easier than reshaping those communities according to the pure and simple standard of the gospel. Look across Christian countries. See how many forces combine to resist and weaken the influence of Christian institutions. See how Christians conform to the world, with its extravagant pleasures and frivolous amusements, its corrupt opinions and ideas of false honor. See the widespread ignorance and degrading superstition, the power of prejudice and the authority of custom. See the unchristian nature of our education systems and the fear of the world’s disapproval and ridicule. We can see at once that true religion faces a host of more formidable enemies in Christian lands than in heathen lands.’
But I must proceed to examine what is the state of professing Christendom, as regards the subject of this letter. A few words will suffice. The habits and employments of fashionable circles are nearly the same throughout Christian communities. The fashion of dress, which varies more rapidly than the changing seasons, is still, as it has been from time immemorial, an all-absorbing object of interest. The simple cobbler of Agawam, who wrote in Massachusetts as early as 1647, speaking of women, says,
But I must now examine the state of the professedly Christian world on the subject of this letter. A few words will be enough. The habits and occupations of fashionable circles are nearly the same throughout Christian communities. Clothing fashions change more rapidly than the seasons. Yet fashion remains an all-consuming interest, as it has been since time immemorial. The simple cobbler of Agawam, writing in Massachusetts as early as 1647, says of women,
“It is no marvel they wear drailes on the hinder part of their heads, having nothing, as it seems, in the fore part, but a few squirrels’ brains to help them frisk from one fashion to another.’
“It is no wonder they wear drailes on the backs of their heads. It seems they have nothing in the front but a few squirrels’ brains to help them leap from one fashion to another.’
It must, however, be conceded, that although there are too many women who merit this severe reprehension, there is a numerous class whose improvement of mind and devotion to the cause of humanity justly entitle them to our respect and admiration. One of the most striking characteristics of modern times, is the tendency toward a universal dissemination of knowledge in all Protestant communities. But the character of woman has been elevated more by participating in the great moral enterprises of the day, than by anything else. It would astonish us if we could see at a glance all the labor, the patience, the industry, the fortitude which woman has exhibited, in carrying on the causes of Moral Reform, Anti-Slavery, &c. Still, even these noble and ennobling pursuits have not destroyed personal vanity. Many of those who are engaged in these great and glorious reformations, watch with eager interest, the ever varying freaks of the goddess of fashion, and are not exceeded by the butterflies of the ball-room in their love of curls, artificial flowers, embroidery and gay apparel. Many a woman will ply her needle with ceaseless industry, to obtain money to forward a favorite benevolent scheme, while at the same time she will expend on useless articles of dress, more than treble the sum which she procures by the employment of her needle, and which she might throw into the Lord’s treasury, and leave herself leisure to cultivate her mind, and to mingle among the poor and the afflicted more than she can possibly do now.
We must admit, however, that although too many women deserve this harsh criticism, many others have improved their minds and devoted themselves to humanity. They justly deserve our respect and admiration. One of the most striking features of modern times is the spread of knowledge throughout Protestant communities. But women’s character has been elevated more by their participation in the great moral causes of the day than by anything else. We would be astonished if we could see at a glance all the work, patience, industry, and courage women have shown in advancing Moral Reform, Anti-Slavery, and other causes. Still, even these noble and uplifting pursuits have not destroyed personal vanity. Many women engaged in these great and glorious reforms eagerly follow the ever-changing whims of the goddess of fashion. Their love of curls, artificial flowers, embroidery, and bright clothing is no less than that of the butterflies of the ballroom. Many a woman sews tirelessly to raise money for a charitable cause dear to her. Yet she spends more than three times that amount on useless clothing. She could instead give that money to the Lord’s treasury and leave herself time to cultivate her mind. She could also spend more time among the poor and afflicted than she possibly can now.
I feel exceedingly solicitous to draw the attention of my sisters to this subject. I know that it is called trifling, and much is said about dressing fashionably, and elegantly, and becomingly, without thinking about it. This I do not believe can be done. If we indulge our fancy in the chameleon caprices of fashion, or in wearing ornamental and extravagant apparel, the mind must be in no small degree engaged in the gratification of personal vanity.
I am very eager to draw my sisters’ attention to this subject. I know people call it trivial. Many say they can dress fashionably, elegantly, and attractively without thinking about it. I do not believe that is possible. If we indulge our taste for fashion’s constantly changing whims or wear elaborate and extravagant clothes, our minds must be occupied to a significant degree with satisfying our personal vanity.
Lest any one may suppose from my being a Quaker, that I should like to see a uniform dress adopted, I will say, that I have no partiality for their peculiar costume, except so far as I find it simple and convenient; and I have not the remotest desire to see it worn, where one more commodious can be substituted. But I do believe one of the chief obstacles in the way of woman’s elevation to the same platform of human rights, and moral dignity, and intellectual improvement, with her brother, on which God placed her, and where he designed her to act her part as an immortal creature, is her love of dress. ‘It has been observed,’ says Scott, ‘that foppery and extravagance as to dress in men are most emphatically condemned by the apostle’s silence on the subject, for this intimated that surely they could be under no temptation to such a childish vanity.’ But even those men who are superior to such a childish vanity in themselves, are, nevertheless, ever ready to encourage it in women. They know that so long as we submit to be dressed like dolls, we never can rise to the stations of duty and usefulness from which they desire to exclude us; and they are willing to grant us paltry indulgences, which forward their own design of keeping us out of our appropriate sphere, while they deprive us of essential rights.
Some may suppose that, because I am a Quaker, I would like everyone to adopt a uniform style of dress. So I will say that I like the Quakers’ distinctive clothing only because it is simple and convenient. I have no desire at all to see it worn where more convenient clothing can replace it. But I believe women’s love of dress is one of the chief obstacles to their advancement. It keeps women from standing beside their brothers in human rights, moral dignity, and intellectual development. God placed women on that same level and intended them to play their part there as immortal creatures. ‘It has been observed,’ says Scott, ‘that the apostle’s silence on the subject condemns showiness and extravagance in dress in men most emphatically. His silence suggests that surely they could not be tempted by such childish vanity.’ Yet even men who are above such childish vanity themselves are always ready to encourage it in women. They know that as long as we submit to being dressed like dolls, we can never rise to the positions of duty and usefulness from which they wish to exclude us. They are willing to grant us petty indulgences while depriving us of essential rights. These indulgences help them keep us out of our proper sphere.
To me it appears beneath the dignity of woman to bedeck herself in gewgaws and trinkets, in ribbons and laces, to gratify the eye of man. I believe, furthermore, that we owe a solemn duty to the poor. Many a woman, in what is called humble life, spends nearly all her earnings in dress, because she wants to be as well attired as her employer. It is often argued that, as the birds and the flowers are gaily adorned by nature’s hand, there can be no sin in woman’s ornamenting her person. My reply is, God created me neither a bird nor a flower; and I aspire to something more than a resemblance to them. Besides, the gaudy colors in which birds and flowers are arrayed, create in them no feelings of vanity; but as human beings, we are susceptible of these passions, which are nurtured and strengthened by such adornments. ‘Well,’ I am often asked, ‘where is the limitation?’ This it is not my business to decide. Every woman, as Judson remarks, can best settle this on her knees before God. He has commanded her not to be conformed to this world, but to be transformed by the renewing of her mind, that she may know what is the good and acceptable and perfect will of God. He made the dress of the Jewish women the subject of special denunciation by his prophet—Is. 3: 16-26; yet the chains and the bracelets, the rings and the ear-rings, and the changeable suits of apparel, are still worn by Christian women. He has commanded them, through his apostles, not to adorn themselves with broidered hair, or gold, or pearls, or costly array. Not to let their adorning be the ‘outward adorning of plaiting the hair, or of wearing of gold, or of putting on of apparel, but let it be the hidden man of the heart, in that which is not corruptible, even the ornament of a meek and quiet spirit, which is in the sight of God of great price;’ yet we disregard these solemn admonitions. May we not form some correct estimate of dress, by asking ourselves how we should feel, if we saw ministers of the gospel rise to address an audience with ear-rings dangling from their ears, glittering rings on their fingers, and a wreath of artificial flowers on their brow, and the rest of their apparel in keeping? If it would be wrong for a minister, it is wrong for every professing Christian. God makes no distinction between the moral and religious duties of ministers and people. We are bound to be ‘a chosen generation, a royal priesthood, a peculiar people, a holy nation; that we should show forth the praises of him who hath called us out of darkness into his marvellous light.’
It seems beneath a woman’s dignity to decorate herself with trinkets, ribbons, and lace to please a man’s eye. I also believe we have a solemn duty to the poor. Many a woman in what is called humble life spends nearly all her earnings on clothes. She wants to dress as well as her employer. People often argue that nature brightly adorns birds and flowers, so women cannot be sinning by adorning themselves. My answer is that God made me neither a bird nor a flower. I aspire to more than looking like them. Besides, the bright colors of birds and flowers do not make them vain. But we are human, and we are susceptible to vanity. Such adornments nurture and strengthen it. ‘Well,’ I am often asked, ‘where should the limit be?’ It is not my place to decide. As Judson remarks, each woman can best settle that question on her knees before God. God has commanded her not to conform to this world, but to be transformed by the renewal of her mind. Then she may know his good, acceptable, and perfect will. Through his prophet, he specially condemned the dress of Jewish women (Is. 3: 16-26). Yet Christian women still wear chains, bracelets, rings, earrings, and changes of fine clothes. Through his apostles, he has commanded them not to adorn themselves with braided hair, gold, pearls, or expensive clothes. Their adornment should not be ‘the outward adornment of braided hair, gold, or clothing, but the hidden person of the heart. It should be the unfading beauty of a meek and quiet spirit, which is very precious to God.’ Yet we disregard these solemn warnings. Might we form a sound judgment about dress by asking ourselves a question? How would we feel if we saw ministers of the gospel rise to address an audience dressed like this? They have earrings dangling from their ears, glittering rings on their fingers, and a wreath of artificial flowers on their heads. The rest of their clothes match these ornaments. If such dress would be wrong for a minister, it is wrong for every professing Christian. God makes no distinction between the moral and religious duties of ministers and those of other people. We are bound to be ‘a chosen generation, a royal priesthood, a people set apart, a holy nation.’ We must be these things ‘so that we may praise him who called us out of darkness into his marvelous light.’
Thine in the bonds of womanhood,
Yours in the bonds of womanhood,
Sarah M. Grimke.
Sarah M. Grimke.